Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB30/25 or 30/26 seem to be the flavour of the month due to making such good results with small outlay (in some cases), So I've been thinking what else is possible.

and how are they done?

what sort of dollars?

rb24 is made using what?

is the rb20 head usefull on anything other than the rb20 bottom end?

what else, if anyhting, can the rb26 bottom end be used for?

can an RB25 head be bolted to an rb26 bottom end? what would be the end result (obvisouly not as good as the rb26, but would it be better than a stock rb25?)

what happens if an RB25 bottom end is put undre an RB26 head?

can the rb20 bottom end be used with any other head and what would the outcome be?

I'd usually PM this sort of crazy questions to SK, but he probably gets annoyed with all my dumb ideas :happy:

so now you can all be part of it..

:D

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/
Share on other sites

tommy kaira made the m30, a rb30de which used an rb20de red top head and rb30e bottom end. the result was 230hp which was put into quite a few r31's that they made

christ that must breathe like crap

i'd also be keen to see/know if a 25 or 26 head can go on a 20 block

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/#findComment-1990092
Share on other sites

GTST who cares is a RB25 head fits on an RB26 block? it would be a waste of time.

same thing goes the other way around.

also only good combo from an RB20 is RB20. or the RB22, 23 24 ideas, but both still use RB20 head and RB20 block.

RB26 head on RB26 block is the best one i reckon, but certainly RB25 and RB26 heads on RB30 blocks have their merits.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/#findComment-1993787
Share on other sites

Has anyone on here actually experienced any of these motor combos on the road? Are they a worth while venture (more torque, better top end etc.)? I ask because I actually have a lot of what is required to build one if my motor goes pop and was keen to hear some real world, seat of your pants driving experiences (street and track). SK, you seem to have built a few. What was your initial impression of a well set up and tuned combo and which do you think would be the best for 90% street, 10% track

Cheers in advance :D

Edited by ellie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/#findComment-1994034
Share on other sites

I think you'd have to have time and money to burn for some of these combinations, but my favourite is a chopped Rb30 block with an Rb20 crank, Rb30 rods & pistons, and Rb25 head.

Would be a bit under 2.5litre and with those long rods should have great combustion properties as well as revving like crazy.

But stacked against all that work, the Rb30det looks the go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/#findComment-1994195
Share on other sites

I think going to the 2.5L capacity sounds most appealing using an Rb25 turbo bottom end with an R32 RB25 N/A head. allowing all your Rb20 auxiallaries to be reused with a remaped standard computer! Giving you the extra capacity with out the much larger outlay of a full RB25 swap.

My 2c anyways :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107439-hybrid-rbs/#findComment-1994201
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Coming home late at night and driving past the police is the only reason i need one haha And yeh, definitley needs a switch to quickly enable it, dont have time to be getting my phone, opening an app, waiting for it to update etc before being able to make the change
    • Because it is financially convenient for them lol. Why wouldn't they want to give you the lowest possible valuation for your car?
    • Yep. @Duncan also shannons they will rip you dry and will be probably limited on how much you can drive. Also keep in mind that you always have to have it garaged with Shannons, with enthusiasts as per their PDS you can have it 2 times per week on the driveway for example. 
    • I had a generic 4" Varex rear box on my old V8, worked a treat for sneaking home late at night, it was as quite as stock when closed The car was "fairly" loud when open as it consisted of 1" 7/8 headers to 3" catted Y pipe, to 4" single, it did have a resonator in the mid pipe and only the Varex out the back I also hard wired in a Varex dash mount switch, as the key fob thing is a pain to use when driving I wouldn't recommend giving the beans when it is closed though as it creates a large restriction in the exhaust  It also can in very handy when pulled over for "random" breath tests or just cruising past the constabulary   
    • Here is the before and after of the scraping/sanding of the IC pads on the tachometer board for the fix mentioned in this thread. And yes it worked fine after. Just a note if you change any components on the board the tach calibration can be wrong showing the wrong idle etc...only problem is once it is installed back in the cluster you can't get to it to adjust...ouch! My fix was to cut out the calibration pot (the blue one) from the board and run it with two wires to the fuse panel under the dash where I could adjust the idle calibration once everything was installed. And yes I soldered everything up again including the half soldered components either side of the IC in my photos                                
×
×
  • Create New...