Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just a quick question here why are u losing it for a year??? i got caught doing 44km over the limit back in july last year and i copped it for only 3 months!!!! plus 3 months for demerit points used up.... to my understanding its 45km and over is 6 months on the spot.... 30-44km over is 3 months this is interesting id go to court and debate the suspension period...

Edited by mass_iv
  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I used the same excuse that speedo was not working... even got dressed up in suit to impress the judge, supplied references etc etc but unfortunately not only did I have to pay the fine... I lost my license, paid a fine and paid court costs for wasting court time. Let me tell you the judge was not impressed and said "speedometer should have been fixed before vehicle was to be driven on the road ... defective vehicle"

Well thanks to the people who had something constructive to say. As for the rest, i dont give a sh1t and have a good life.

;) Only just read this, and that's exactly the comment I would expect from someone like you who posts one hell of a lack of driving ability & knowledge on a public, Australia-wide read forum. Nice work.

Here is some constructive feedback

Are you in Victoria? If so, than anything over 30km/hr is a mandatory 12months licence loss, regardless of judge.

One thing that might help is to tell judge (if it isnt on the coppers report) that you didnt know speedo was busted and only found out after you received the fine, and have since booked it in to get it fixed. Get a report etc and you might have a chance of getting away. There is a chance that even with the speedo issue, you will still lose your licence for a year due to the mandatory penalty. I lost my licence for a year and judge said she couldnt do anything about the licence, but she did significantly lower my fine.

Good luck!

And the rest of you, lay off him. Losing his licence for a year will be plenty of punishment as it is. Get off you high horses and get fu(ked.

You have every right to go to court & argue your case; so use you right!

Get the fine, contest it, go to court, and swear the truth - let the judge decide whats reasonable & whats not.

thats awesome, and not only loose the case, but also get a canery on the car because of the faulty speedometer, :/, its the owners/drivers responsibilty to make sure its working correctly and to fix it immediatly

it would be like

cop pulls u over for have no rear brake lights

oh thanks officer i didnt know they were out

cop ... yeah no worries here is ur fine

i'd go fix them now

etc ...

hehe

the car in its current state is in fact unroadworthy.

I find it hard to believe people are taking the high ground on this. I dont know anyone who hasnt sped a fair way over the speed limit at some point, and im talking about normal cars like camry's, pulsars, commo's etc

I took a round trip to canberra today (from sydney). Average speed of all the cars 120km/h. The speed limit is 110. Point is, everyone speeds at some stage. It wasnt like he was in a school zone doing 90...he was on joining a freeway...

That said, youve goto be idiotic if you couldnt tell how fast you were going. At 141km, your at least 3.5-4k rpm in 5th gear. Skylines dont cruise comfortably at that speed. Theres too much air resistance so you have to be constantly boosting to maintain that speed.

You should cop the fine and whatever time they give you since theres no way you could not have known that you werent speeding (i dont care if you speed, just suck it in when you do get caught and dont try to weasel yourself out of it)

I live in Canada, so i don't know your laws but, i think that there is a legitimate case here, well there is atleast a case in Canada. if you were merging then there is no cars beside you. If you were caught just as you enter the freeway then how would you know that you were going that fast. man i have had my car up to 150 in regular traffic. personaly i don't glue my eyes on my tacko i look at the road! as should you all. ya take a look down every once in a while but if your speedo is not working can you have 100% trust in your tacko? i can't. I would replace everything, to make sure that it did not happen again.

so man fight it and see what happeneds. like i said i don't know your law but in canada there is reasonable doubt and they are more persuasive.

I have been caught doing 135 in a 100 zone and i got away with fighting it because there was a bus doing 60km/h in the fast lane.

So don't fret aout it what is done is done, get the car fixed, and learn from teh mistake that you made and if a judge see's that you are legitimate then your going to get off.

and i disagree my car drives very comfortabley at 4000RPM

PS in canada you can be causght ding 100KM/H over the speed limit and you still only get off with a fine! no jail time no suspention, just fine and points!

Here is some constructive feedback

One thing that might help is to tell judge (if it isnt on the coppers report) that you didnt know speedo was busted and only found out after you received the fine, and have since booked it in to get it fixed.

That would maybe be a bit more plausible if it was reading LOWER than his actual speed and not higher.

What's your driving record like? Been busted before?

Fight it if you want, but like others have said you'll be trying to get out of one crime by admitting to another. Not a smart idea!

Good luck mate!

That would maybe be a bit more plausible if it was reading LOWER than his actual speed and not higher.

What's your driving record like? Been busted before?

Fight it if you want, but like others have said you'll be trying to get out of one crime by admitting to another. Not a smart idea!

Good luck mate!

I was just staying under the 180 mark as thats what it read when i was driving to sydney and i was sitting with the rest of the traffic. Ive had it fixed now and the guy said they found it was fluctuating up to 70km's out. sometimes it was fine, then it would be slighlty out, then it was reading ridiculous figures. I'm not going to contest it even though i have a report from the calibrator specifying all this as i cant see them letting me off. legal advice ive gotten indicates a very small chance of success. Its only 6 months as well, not 12 as i previously thought. I'm happy to support our state rail system for a few months. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...