Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

walbro pump, malpassi 2:1 reg, gtr injectors

600-300-76 hybrid cooler, k&n pod

high mount manifold, 35mm wastegate, gt3071r turbo

3" turbo back exhaust, no cat, cannon on rear no silencer, 2" wastegate pipe plumbed in just before cat

wolf 3d with ebc

splitfire coils

7 heatrange plugs gapped to .6

when tuned boost was set at 22psi, today it was showing 25psi by the dyno, i havent looked at the gauge when driving for abvious reasons

Yeh, something isnt adding up. That sized turbo should have a bucket load more stomp with that boost level. Try a different tuner...does it have adjustable cam gears...the timign belt/timign correct?

And what brand is the exhaust?

Ok i didnt sleep well last night thinking about the car, how could i be maxing out gtr injectors at 203kw when using a good pump 2;1 reg with heaps of pressure unless the afr are all over the place. Just went for a power run on a local dyno that is said to be quite accurate and here are the results.

please comment on afr, would you leave the tune alone and be happy or have it looked at by someone else. The car drives great, little hard to start when hot and uses heaps of fuel.

Thanks guys.

Are you running 13.8 volts to the Walbro or 11.2 volts?

(ie; standard wiring or relay back to battery?)

The common Walbros are rated at 550 bhp at 13.8 volts at 40 psi.

You are running 23 psi (boost) plus 40 psi (fuel pressure) = 63 psi

If you are only using 11.2 volts, the pump will run out of flow and pressure at around 380 bhp.

You need to check the fuel pressure on the dyno at max injector duty.

:P cheers :)

PS; clean GTR injectors are good for 265 rwkw.

Ok the exhaust was done at a local shop, timing is ok, the pump was just conected to the wiring but we checked pressure on the dyno and all was good, injectors were cleaned before they went in. So i guess ill give dyno dave a call when i save some money up and see what he can do with the tune

standard cams and gears

Edited by grim32
That tune looks somewhat hurrendous, i would be taking that back to who ever tuned it & bitch slapping them. can i suggest that could be the main source of your problems??

Ha ha ha you make me laugh. Although a bitch slap as you put it might be in order, ill just leave it at that and let someone else tune it.

WOW, when i looked at those A/F ratios I got a shock!

They look like they have been hardly tuned at all :P:(

time to take it to someone who knows what they're doing :P

ROFL looks like Mr Squiggle was trying to draw bart simpsons head.

Only my 2c but I hate rising rate fuel pressure regulators , the pump is often on its knees and not always for any good reason . Roller cell efi pumps will trade volume for pressure and so if the pressure is not required it costs volume anyway . If injector flow is limiting then higher pressure is the only answer but its a bit of a band aid .

Cheers A .

Only my 2c but I hate rising rate fuel pressure regulators , the pump is often on its knees and not always for any good reason . Roller cell efi pumps will trade volume for pressure and so if the pressure is not required it costs volume anyway . If injector flow is limiting then higher pressure is the only answer but its a bit of a band aid .

Cheers A .

Funny you mention that as i spoke to Adrian at Toda Racing today and he said the same thing, as well as being hard to tune with. He recomended a sard regulator.

  • 8 months later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but i am about to install a gt30 on my rb20 and was wondering what cams would give a good overall power increase?

My supporting mods are:

GT30 with .64 internal wastegate,

GTR injectors,

040 fuel pump,

6 boost exhaust manifold,

oz power plenum,

hybrid copy intercooler.

Also do I need adjustable cam gears with a camshaft upgrade?

Sorry for the hyjack, hopefully my question is relivant to the thread starters car too :P

Dan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
×
×
  • Create New...