Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its funny how I always see skylines for sale that are boosted with no FMICs...

It seems that most people don't care and just boost the living daylights out of their car for performance with a stock SMIC...

That is so dodgey... :starwars:

Who Agrees that its stupid...?

I'm looking to boost my 32 GTS-T up to 12psi, but will be running full turbo back 3" exhaust with split dump and high flow cat, as well as sports filter insert and R34 stock intercooler. I think that should be safe enough?

BOVs, free up airlfow to raise boost ????

LOL... anyways.

Johnny Cash, as per your thread, run those mods and you will be running that boost anyway. Trust me, If your car doesnt run 11-12psi with those mods, the quality of your intercooler/dump/filter are dodge, as without a dump pipe, adn with the std cat, mine ran 11psi.

Then with my AVCR i ran 14-15psi for about 20i25 track days. So thats 4-5 x 20min sessions per track day, i ran 15psi when it was cold or i had some toluene in the tank...so unless there is a fault you are pretty dafe running 12psi. My 2c if it dies at 14 psi it will have died at 12psi ...

yeah i raised my eyebrow a bit too... maybe he means the standard bov wont cop higher boost levels without lifting? dunno. I dont think that boosting up to 10-12 psi without a fmic is really that big of an issue. but I personally wouldn't do 12psi without a PFC so I could monitor knock etc.

The R34 SMIC can actually handle these higher pressures so there's no real drama in turning up the boost there.

will the 33's intercooler not handle 12 psi of boost?

stock rb20 has about 10psi.

good turbo back exhaust and free flowing intake will take it to about 11.5 psi anyway.

my old one did.

rb25's can't go over like 9.5 psi using stock ecu properly anyway...

so they can go from 7psi to 9.5 psi.

rb's can go from 10-12 psi.

I wouldnt bother with a FMIC on a street or drag only car for someone who has put the boost up 2-3 psi over stock.

also, some people put boost controllers on to make their cars spool up faster.

they keep the wastegate shut for longer therefore turbo comes on boost quicker.

so yeh.. I don't think that you are right in saying its STUPID to run more boost without fmic

Its funny how I always see skylines for sale that are boosted with no FMICs...

It seems that most people don't care and just boost the living daylights out of their car for performance with a stock SMIC...

That is so dodgey... :starwars:

Who Agrees that its stupid...?

Boosting the rb25 a little bit, say to 10psi with out a front mount is fine, you get more power especially under 4500rpm where you'll be on 10psi rather than the factory 5psi. On a really hot day sometimes it feels like it needs a FMIC! but really 10psi is not going to hurt the car.

Its funny how I always see skylines for sale that are boosted with no FMICs...

It seems that most people don't care and just boost the living daylights out of their car for performance with a stock SMIC...

That is so dodgey... :starwars:

Who Agrees that its stupid...?

its actuallly quite obvious why most people do it..

cars cost 15k+

unless you're james packer, that doesn't leave much $$ for mods

so when people see the options of FMIC for $1000, and boost controller for $100 its easy to just chose the simple option where they will get a higher power increase

at the end of the day... money talks

Hmm.. strange question..

anyways - because

a) it removes the stock boost solenoid

b) turbo spools up quicker

c) you car raise the boost slightly 5/8psi - 9/10..

d) why the hell not.. who says you need to hack your car to put a FMIC to install a boost controller..

what happened to your car joni?

Yeah but I hear stories where people boost their cars up to 12PSI with everything stock except and exhaust, thats just stupid... its asking for trouble

I think there is a large grey area here were you can boost your car slightly without to much drama if you take it easy on hot days(common sense). You won't necessarily hurt the car but it is far from an ideal setup. It is a compremise more people are willing to make than spend the money on an intercooler although with proven kits to be had for 500 delivered that a teenager can fit in his back yard these days i can't see any reason for not having one.

And i fail to see (even with the soloniod out of the picture) how an increse in boost will make the turbo spool any quicker? it will just continue on its normal ramp but to a higher setting

lol i love this thread try stock r33 with pod and 1bar!! lmao it not funny my friend actually did it and was wondering why it wouldnt hold boost!! he evently put a cat back on it went better and the he went to the dark side and bought a s15! lol

I've kept the sidemount for 2.5 years, not a problem 12-13psi all day every day, 150ish rwkw... And beat many a simliar modded R32 (ie LIGHTER car) with fmic's... You work it out. I also havn't been pulled over for 2 years, at all.

I fail to see (even with the soloniod out of the picture) how an increse in boost will make the turbo spool any quicker? it will just continue on its normal ramp but to a higher setting

Not necessarily... some types of boost controller are better for allowing the turbo to produce more boost earlier in its curve. They actually control boost better than the stock solenoid. So it's not really the increase in boost that does it, it's more of a "side effect" of the new boost control. That's my understanding anyway.

Edited by jezzerrr
also, some people put boost controllers on to make their cars spool up faster.

they keep the wastegate shut for longer therefore turbo comes on boost quicker.

This is the exact reason I installed an electronic boost controller. The difference is very noticable.

makes fist gear completly worthless, and every other gear gets a little more interesting. Doesn't hurt that the stock rb20 turbo is a little spool monstor to begin with.

it's like some people don't even rad other replies before they post.

an rb25 using stock computer can't boost up to 1 bar. it will hit many issues.

1.) ecu will run really rich and retard timing causing a dip in power and like said above, not hold boost.

2.) all the extra boost will blow out the spark of the spark plugs causing the engine to miss and make it slower than a car running under 10 psi boost.

unless you are using the car for circuit racing where you are constantly on full throttle and back off for short time, the stock side mount will cope fine with 2-3 psi exta.. on the street where you accelerate to 60 or 100, will be on the throttle for about 8 seconds at most... then you cruise.. the side mount gets heat soaked then cools as you cruise off boost.

drag racing..

you are on the trottle for 15 seconds or less. then you wait for like 40 minutes before next one with your car off.. so it's cool again..

and I already explained how a boost controller helps spool the turbo up faster above.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...