Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.. Recently added a lcd and dvd headunit to my skyline and now i want too add new speakers before i transfer my Rockford Amp and 12inch sub from my sil too the sky.

Ive been looking at getting Pioneer TS-C160R for the fronts and TS-D61S for the rears.

Link for the rears: http://www.pioneer.com.au/car_entertainmen...691s/index.html

Link for the fronts: http://www.pioneer.com.au/car_entertainmen...160r/index.html

I know that i will need to get a spacer for the rear too fit the 6x9's in. Just wanting to know whether this would be a good set up in the skyline and i also need to know what amp too get that will provide enough power for the speakers.

If anyone knows any other good speaker set up please let me know.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107594-advice-on-sound-system-for-r33/
Share on other sites

I've got pioneer 3-ways in the front, would def recommend getting the splits for the front..

As for the rears.. well.. you'll have to hack a bit of the back up to put them in as it's a structural support for the car..

Try and get an amp and do it all at once.. the Splits will be much better than..

thanks for the reply.. when you say hack a abit of the back.. wat do u mean by that??? acutally moved the parcel shelf??? Or just adding the spacers??

Yeah i know i need a amp but how many watts and channels do i need to support the speakers? Correct me if im right but i know i need a 4 channel amp???

4 channel amp to run 4 speakers, sure. If you're running the sub, you'd need a 5 channel or a 4 and a seperate amp to drive the sub.

By hacking the parcel-tray, he means: cut the metal underneath the wooden parcel tray. Never do this! As mentioned, it's structural, and shouldn't be messed with for the sake of fitting speakers.

I've heard that 6x9's will fit with a spacer, but that just looks too bodgey for my likings. =-]

If you're running a sub, you just need nice 2 or 3-way 6.5" drivers for rear "fill"... they don't really need to produce much bass at all. (that's the subs job!)

Edited by RANDY

Ive got 330w pioneer 6/9"s in the back and splits in the front and an 800w pioneer sub in the boot all powered by a 3200w 5 channel amp screwed to the back of the sub box in my R33, it was a real and I mean major prick getting the std speakers out of the parcel shelf and had to use spacers to fit the 6/9s but the sound is awsome in a coupe, the spacers dont look to bad for the moment but soon im going to copy what a mate did in his commo when he put 7/10s in and make moulded spacers for the shelf and just buy some shelf carpet and retrim the shelf around the spacers up to the edge of the speakers it looks pretty neat in his commo as if it was built like that and is not really a big job, just cut like two or three pieces of chip board with a jigsaw each smaller than the next to fit around the speakers glue the pieces together and then file and sand the edges to slope up towards the speakers, pull the carpet of the shelf and glue or screw your new spacers in then add the new carpet up over the spacers cut the holes in the carpet for the speakers and along the edges of the shelf making sure its all smooth then glue it down and your done just drop the speakers in and add screws and youve got a custom shelf and it looks mint, neither my mate or I are motor trimmers or the like and it looks professional, dosn't cost much and only takes a couple of hours like I said the hardest part is taking out the standard speakers I had to break the plastic mounts to get them out but you dont need them if your using bigger speakers unless your thinking of putting the stock ones back later.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have seen a case where the starter motor shorting against the casing caused a massive voltage drop + so much EMI that it caused all the sensors to spew garbage data at the ECU. Test the battery to make sure it has acceptable CCA/capacity first, I have gotten "brand new" batteries before that couldn't even power a 10W light bulb without dying probably because it sat in a warehouse too long without being charged. Only easy way to diagnose this 100% is put an oscilloscope on the battery and also look at key sensors to see if there's any clues.
    • There's a bunch of smaller shops that don't quite attract Singer money but are still hiring from that same pool of labor. Those are the body shops that you go to when you can't afford a Singer, but your old Porsche needs some serious bodywork. You can't exactly take those cars to the usual insurance body shops. When I say restomod, I mean they'll do something other than 100% OEM/OEM-equivalent aftermarket parts R&R. In the Porsche world this would be stuff like taking a 50k 964, doing a bunch of deferred maintenance/unwinding the nightmares the previous owners did to the car because a lot of people that own these cars tended to be penny wise, pound foolish types, then maybe some relatively simple off the shelf modifications to things like suspension, transmission, engine, headlights, etc. and you've spent 130k USD. When even the worst houses in the poor neighborhoods are worth 1M USD and the nice houses in wealthy neighborhoods are worth 3-10M USD suddenly 130k spent on a 50k car seems cheap.
    • Hoping to get a few ideas to help troubleshoot this issue, I'll try to keep it short.  A mate popped the motor in his 2018 LDV T60 with the 2.8 turbo diesel motor. He swapped it and I was his phone a friend when he got stuck.  The new motor is in, however it won't fire. The battery is literally brand new, when you crank it the volts very quickly (say 2 seconds of cranking) drop to 8 volts and the engine stops turning over. Watching the belts, I'd say they move about 5cm before coming to a stop. We put a booster pack on, no change.  The only potential issue I'm aware of is, when we pulled the motor the grounding strap was still attached. The strap copped a thrashing before we realised what was going on. It looks okay-ish but it's going to be replaced to rule it out.  The main challenge is, I wasn't there for 90% of the work. This is his first time doing any major work on a car and he was learning as he was going. He thinks everything has been put back together properly, however I'm not entirely confident that this is the case.  It would be good to get some ideas about what else to check. The car isn't spitting any codes so that doesn't help.  I've attached a photo, because why not lol.   
    • I mean an N1 came with a minimal paint thickness compared to dealer models. It’s probably had a ton of vinyls and stuff possible a race paintjob or two over the years. you don’t buy an N1 for its stunning good looks or comfort 🤣 you buy it to send it and measure how much air you can get on the hill at Bathurst
    • Yeah, but "restomod" implies Singer and things like it, which implies drug money / trust fund maturity.
×
×
  • Create New...