Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just wondering what everyone thinks is the best method to warming up your skyline before you start driving and cooling it down afterwoods.

I have been given mixed information and just trying to clarify what is the correct one.

Is it better to let the car warm up and cool down while it is parked ie: about 5 mins of running or would it be better to let it warm parked for about 60 secs then drive it normally for about 15 mins at around 3000rpms?

any information is appreciated!

thanks

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107641-warming-up-and-cooling-down-skyline/
Share on other sites

you could be anal retentive and do both!! like so many others do... but realisticly giv it a couple minutes to warm up and treat it with respect for a bit.

when it comes to cooling it down, just set the timer according to how hard u drove it. for example if u thumped it on the way home give it 4 min to cool down, but if u cruised it home give it 2 min to cool down

dont be one of those shmucks that gives it 10 mins to warm up before you drive it

Cold morning I tend to warm it up until the needle on my oil temp gauge just starts to creep up, otherwise I'll warm her up just until the water temp needle starts to move north.

Cooling doon... Turbo timer my friend. Anywhere between 2 min to 5 min, depends on how much spirited driving I've just done beforehand. :D

For warming her up, I usually give it until the water temp needle begins to creep up. And for cooling down, I usually slow down a couple blocks before home so I don't have to leave it on the timer for more than a minute or so.

Edited by Remix-

The engine will warm up quicker if you drive the car. And you might as well be getting somewhere while you're burning all that fuel. I climb in the car, fire up the engine, reverse out the driveway and on my way. Keep it under about 3000 rpm until the needle starts to move.

Cooling down - forget timers; the best timer is inside your head. Just drive sensibly for the last 1km or so before you reach your destination, and you can pretty safely simply switch off the engine.

when im about to leave, before i get ready i go out to my car, turn it on then take the key out so the turbo timer takes over then set it to 4-5min, lock the car then go and get ready.

by the time im back the car is reasonably warm and is at a decent temperature for me to drive off with my mind at ease.

Warming up, I usually start the engine as soon as I get to the car.

Then if I have anything to load into it, I'll put it in. Get in the car, put the belt on and make sure everything's right (checking mirrors, gauges, etc) before slowly driving off. Usually around 30-60 seconds.

As blind_elk says, your engine will warm up faster if its got load. So I'll drive it around gently until the water temp gauge increases.

Don't forget, your water temp gauge doesn't tell you everything. You still have no indication of how hot the engine oil is, not to mention transmission and diff fluid, tyre temps, and the rest. Half of them won't even get heat until you start moving.

As for cooling down, I don't drive a turbo but like all modern engines mine runs hot. I prefer to cool down on the move. In the last few minutes I'll drive it at low load; luckily its downhill to my place so I tend to just coast in a high gear.

Leaving your engine idling when you pull over is great for passing oil through your turbo to help cool it down, but with no air flow over your heat exchangers....where does that heat end up? Its not going to dissipate itself.

I used to be a paranoid freak and let it warm up for 10 minutes or more and even then the temps had only just started to move up. Couldnt figure why I had such bad economy.

These days, I fire it up, wait till oil pressure rises (few seconds) and take off driving sensibly. Funny now that it doesnt take anywhere near ten minutes to get up to temp.

Cool down is like others said. Just take it slowly 5-10 minutes away from home and then I shut it down instantly.

I jump in and drive straight away, but like blind elk, keep RPM low (I try to stay below 2,500) and dont come on boost until the opperating temp is at normal, and the oil pressure is about normal too. At least the oil pressure should give you some indication weather the car is at normal opperating temp.

Cool down is similar to blind elk too but if I've been boosting at all I usually give it min 1 min just for peace of mind. Hard driving, maybe 3-4

Not sure what other people do but thats just my habit now.

thanks heaps for all of your input!

i thought the letting it idle for about 60 sec then driving it under 3000rpms would be better for it as far as lubrication and stuff goes then just letting it sit for 5-10mins!!

thanks :woot:

The engine will warm up quicker if you drive the car. And you might as well be getting somewhere while you're buring all that fuel. I climb in the car, fire up the engine, reverse out the driveway and on my way. Keep it under about 3000 rpm until the needle starts to move.

Cooling down - forget timers; the best timer is inside your head. Just drive sensibly for the last 1km or so before you reach your destination, and you can pretty safely simply switch off the engine.

words to live by

Do also remember the cool down isn't as critical in water cooled turbo's due to thermosyphoning. :woot:

I do as the majority.

Warm up - Start, put the belt on and drive off easily 2000-2500rpm.

I was told to do this by my engine builder as doing this brings the forged pistons up to temp quicker reducing the amount of time they slap around damaging the bores.

Cool down - drive easy for a km or two prior to shutting down, I'd be silly to thrash around the side streets where I live anyhow.

remote start is cool...

i start mine as i step out of the house in the mornings and by the time i've walked to the car stepped in and put on my belt, a good 60s have passed :whoops: then i just take it easy as everyone else does...

"Warming the car up" is mostly just a habit that people have picked up from previous generations.

People saw dad warming the old FJ up for 10 to 15 minutes, and they think that's just the way things are done.

Welcome to the 21st century people.

You are now able to get into your car and drive off straight away.

remote start compromises the security of the car, I read a post sumthing abt it sumwhere, not because the car is running without a driver, got to do with lesser alarm function..I think..

me, I warm up till temp needle goes to middle, abt 5-6 min...

remote start compromises the security of the car, I read a post sumthing abt it sumwhere, not because the car is running without a driver, got to do with lesser alarm function..I think..

me, I warm up till temp needle goes to middle, abt 5-6 min...

Well in my bro's car you still need a key to drive the car as the only thing that is working is the engine...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
    • Curious to see how the SpeedTek stuff holds up
    • The holdups last year were drivetrain related. I had the car out right after getting the bearing issue resolved. Third launch and the car didn't move after releasing the clutch. It had sheared all the engagement teeth off the 1st gear.    Thankfully no other damage was done. I set an aftermarket gear beside an OEM gear and found that the engagement teeth on the OEM gear were much larger and better supported. Looking through my bin of spare transmission gears I found that there are two types of tooth on the OEM first gears - the larger tooth and the smaller tooth. It looks like most aftermarket gearset manufacturers base their design on the smaller tooth. OEM large tooth left - Speedtek, OS Giken, etc or OEM small tooth right Decided to give that larger engagement tooth a try. Pressed the ring off an OEM gear and sent it to a transmission manufacturer here in the States. They did their "faceplating" operation with my synchro ring on the Speedtek gear.   I reassembled it, took it back to the track and promptly destroyed the gear itself.  I'll rebuild this and use it as a spare - thankfully just first gear and the countershaft are damaged beyond repair. Definitely disheartening but my welded on engagement tooth ring held up!  Moved to Speedtek's dog engagement design as the gears appear to be much stronger. So far they have taken much more abuse at the track. Also scored a Stillway lockout from the Netherands for super cheap. It's for some other RB transmission so it took a bit of fabrication to fit but honestly a very easy job. I also had to heavily modify the gates as they were very different.   Then for some reason at the last test and tune a silicon coupler below the throttle blew off and took out the radiator and fan. Thankfully it was in the burnout box and not down track. This car is really beating me up - I still haven't made a pass in it. Ran it through the gears many times on the street but it keeps biting me at the track.  Currently in the process of replacing the radiator and remaking the throttle pipe to remove the coupler and use a cast 90 and a vband. I WILL get this thing down the track...
    • Covers most of the above points really. There's a few exceptions but most just see driving as an irritating but necessary task they must complete if they want to get anywhere on time. Also see it as a good time to show their awesome multi-tasking abilities on their mobile and/or doing their makeup.  
    • I don't believe I posted pictures of the second oil pump pickup I added so here they are. Data shows it gets oil pressure up to the relief pressure much earlier in the RPM. Is that important? Not likely... This was just another attempt to fix the bearing issues.   I also heavily opened up the inlet to the pump since it now had to flow oil from two pickups. I believe the diameter increased about 1/8".
×
×
  • Create New...