Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

first of all, i'd like to say hello to all of you in the forums, the info here is priceless and has helped me at many times.

i have a 1993 r33 gts-t with the following mods:

front mount cooler, 600 by 300 by 76mm

turbosmart type 3 plumback blowoff valve

turbosmart dual stage boost controller

k and n pod filter with cold air intake hose from bumper

thasts about it for performance mods

im currently running just under 10psi and have tried to go more but the engine pings and splutters and it sounds like the engine cuts out for a second or 2.

i called a guy that specializes in turbos who has a dyno and he said a s-afc would fix those problems along with a dyno tune.

what do u guys think??

and whats the difference between the s-afc and the s-afc 2??

thanx in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10771-do-i-need-an-apexi-s-afc/
Share on other sites

i dont plan to upgrade the turbo anytime soon, or the injectors,

i got quoted $600 for an s-afc, and $700 for a s-afc 2. do they both do the same thing, cos if i dont need to spend the extra money then why bother

whats a ruff price for a piggy back ecu???

and what can it do that a s-afc cant???

thanx

piggy backs usually can also do ignition timing (ala apexi ITC).

rough price for a piggy back ECU? I'll tell you a rough price if you can tell me how long a piece of string is :( (get my drift?)

controlling timing can also gain you a bit more power than just fiddling with air/fuel. the prices you got are about right. consider installation and tuning cost too.

is there any other way to do ignition timing???

cos im pretty sure that ignition timing might be one my problems, i thought that sorta thing can be tuned without anything additional.

one more question, is a piggy back ecu more than a s-afc??

Well the SAFC is actually a piggy back system in that you still retain your standard ECU, it only does air/fuel ratio not timing however the timing is fine set at factory setting of 15 deg. I have similar mods to yours and without the SAFC my car carried on a bit as well mainly due to the over rich A/F ratio, but I was still able to run 11psi. I would go the SAFC II as your best off with the latest stuff although there is nothing wrong with the earlier model.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...