Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i could get 4 so i replaced 4, the other two didnt need replacing. they were 2nd hand in top condition.

i got the head gasket off someone who had is spare from a vrs kit. i forgot to add that to the list, ill do that now.

the assembly lube is a really light mix, its more than likley to be ignited within a few cycles, we did use them on the bearings but my brother in law said it was fine to use on the rings, we only used a light layer.

Well on the topic, to run it in basically:

Change oil and filter at 500 and 2000klm. mineral oil only.

Keep it under say 4000rpm, no boost

Don't let it idle or stay at the same revs for long periods.

And do a compression test early and at the end of the run in cycle to make sure it all is fine.

No idea about the assembly grease in the bores I used oil personally, but hey look where that got me.....keep us posted about how it goes.

Some questions about what you ended up doing for the bottom end prep, did you do any cleaning, testing, clearance measuring or balancing? And which grade pistons did you get and if you didn't get the clearances checked how do you know they were correct? same question for the bearings did you measure the clearance or just put standard ones in? Did you check the ring end gaps?

Wow.. seeing as I'm possibly going to be off the road for a while I'd love to learn about how to maintain, clean etc my engine.

1000K's of under 3000-4000rpm would drive me crazy.. I guess you could knock that off over Friday, Sat and Sun if you were really keen tho..

Some questions about what you ended up doing for the bottom end prep, did you do any cleaning, testing, clearance measuring or balancing? And which grade pistons did you get and if you didn't get the clearances checked how do you know they were correct? same question for the bearings did you measure the clearance or just put standard ones in? Did you check the ring end gaps?

all we did was hone the bores, we checked the clearances with a dial gauge (i think its called).

the crank and old bearings didnt have any ware on it so we just threw in some standard bearings. most of the questions my brother in law has answers for, he tried to explain them to me but i dont really get into the fine details of it all, hes the master mechanic.

I just noticed in the pics you posted the block is in the car . Did you hone it in the car ? How did you get the crank off To change the main bearings? Its easy enough to change the conrod big ends in the car ( i wouldnt , much easier to remove the donk out ), but how did you change the mains ?Did you drop the box down and then pull the crank off ?

I just noticed in the pics you posted the block is in the car . Did you hone it in the car ? How did you get the crank off To change the main bearings? Its easy enough to change the conrod big ends in the car ( i wouldnt , much easier to remove the donk out ), but how did you change the mains ?Did you drop the box down and then pull the crank off ?

I was about to ask the same question.

I have never seen anyone do a hone with the bottom end still bolted into the car

its running!!

the motor was raised around 1.5inches to give us clearance for the sump etc.

we then pulled the main bearings out by turning over the crank while pushing the bearing out with a small flat head, then kept turning it while holding onto the bearing which then came out completely. it was alot easier than pulling the crank out, alot quicker too.

my brother in law will be at the cruise ill be organising once my cars run in so if anyones got any questions just ask him, hes a top bloke and an excellent mechanic.

and the conrod bearings are easy peasy to change. just so you guys know, the rb25 and rb26 conrod bearings are exactly the same so gtr rods are definately a better alternative if you're thinking about doing it. gtr rods are alot beefier than rb25 rods.

well its off the road again.. we tested oil pressure tonight and it was 10psi at warm idle and around 30psi at around 3000prm. no good.

its on stands ready to be ripped apart for the new pump.

damnit!

well its off the road again.. we tested oil pressure tonight and it was 10psi at warm idle and around 30psi at around 3000prm. no good.

its on stands ready to be ripped apart for the new pump.

damnit!

Are you sure its the oil pump ?

what else could it be mate?

Clearances maybe to big, a new pump is not going to help there .

Was the oil pressure good before the rebuild? If yes its not the pump its the way it was rebuild. Did you open the oli pump to inspect ?

the clearances were fine... there wasnt any ware on the old bearings, big ends or mains.

i dont remember where the oil pressure was before the rebuild, but i dont remember having a problem with it.

what im thinking is somehow when the piston melted it might've done something to the oil pump.

ill check the pump out anyway.. what should i look for?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh and my rear arms may need some attention too.    
    • Bushings are almost done. Check the date stamp 馃槀 these are likely the original bushings with 27 years and 243ks on them.     Was too dark to get a pic of the worst one.
    • Porous blocks are a known issue on something like a Porsche M96, it's not really something I've ever heard of on an RB26. It's possible what people thought was a "porous block" was really a cracked block that they just didn't spot the crack on.
    • This is a controversial subject really, the whole power vs fun thing I mean And this is the main reason I got back into a MX5 Of the last few notable daily cars I've owned whilst I have frequented SAU R33 GTS-t: fun, but because I'm a idiot I modified well past a reliable fun car and ended up hating it, although that was my fault because I tried to have a daily cruiser and race car all in one, the family called it the sometimes car, because sometimes it was working, sometimes it was broken, gladly sold it NB MX5: brilliant car, thrashed the Bejebus out of it, but, again, was stupid and deleted the air con, power steering and stripped the interior out, whilst still fun, and reliable, and super cheap on consumables, it was not a fun place to be going on long cruises, I did love it, but basically every family member hated going anywhere in it, sadly sold it 2015 WRX STI: soulless thing that looked like your average Kia sedan and had that horrible boxer engine with glass ringlands, the family did like it though, that thing was one of my stupidest purchases and I still regret it 2017 Toyota 86: 馃槳 if I didn't crash it, I would probably still have it, it was a fun little thing, even with that horrible boxer engine, the family did like it, the only reason I didn't get another 86, or, BRZ was the boxer engine, I should have learnt after owning the STI, but I'm a idiot VX SS: great cruiser, fits the whole family, and was fast as.....in a straight line, but a big fat thing, so no enjoyment throwing it around corners, the family was unimpressed with the whole boganness of if, but they did admit it was a comfy place to sit on long cruises As for the NC, I feel it is perfect for what I want, or need out of of a car, whether I'm cruising the Hwy, back roads, twisties or peak hour traffic, the Mrs doesn't mind driving it either, or cruising in it as well, although she does bump her head of the roof nearly every time she gets in, which is farking hilarious, and the kids love taking it for a thrash as well So basically, I've had constantly more fun, and way less headache and heartache, both on the track and on the street, in low powered cars,  go figure.....LOL One thing though, the Mrs has stated that the cams have made the exhaust sound much louder, which they have, but it doesn't bother me, in fact, I actually like it, but, to negate any future comments from the Minister for War and Finances I may look at some changes to the rear muffler set-up to drop the volume down a tad to appease her when we are out and about in it
    • You will need to extend the turbo inlet pipe somehow, which could/might be done with silicone/rubber pipe, but might need steelwork, depending on your intake. And you will need to change the pipework on the outlet in teh same way, but this is more likely to need steelwork.
  • Create New...