Which Ecu To Get; R34 Gt-t Tiptronic

[satanic]

OK before everyone screams out do a search or whatever; please take 5minutes to read what I'm asking... I've done the searches and there is absolutely nothing on SAU regarding this (especially the HKS item).

Basically, I've hit a barrier on my upgrades path - the stock ECU + SAFC2 combination just not pulling its weight and is restricting my current setup to a lowly 198.2rwkw. All the factory protection systems kick in and "terminate" any dyno runs we attempt (fuel cut, rich and retard systems etc. etc.)

I have sussed out 3 systems that will be able to fix this problem and provide me with much better tuning capabilities than what I have right now. At the end of the day it's not going to be 100% effective, but it'll be close. The three on my mind now are ITS from Unigroup, Haltech e11v2, or the new HKS F-Con Is.

Question: Which one should I go for? (below are some Pros and Cons)

* ITS I've never really heard of and its never gone on a 34GTT before - pretty much experimental work here.

* ITS is relatively cheaper though for the unit, install and tune (from their website)

* Haltech will work after wiring it up in "piggy back" mode, using all signals barr the gear change signal

* Haltech is the most expensive of the three for unit, install and tune

* Haltech has been developed in Australia, heaps of technical support and its upgradeable

* Haltech system will remove need for AFM, existing EBC.

* HKS item is brand new and largely un-tested/used in the Australian import scene

* HKS Japan advertises that it will work on the R34GTT (as per their website)

* HKS is slightly cheaper than the Haltech when everything is installed and tuned.

* HKS unit I dare say will have to be "learnt" by the tuner as it is a new system

Any opinions or ideas would be much appreciated... looking at making a decision within the next week or so, want to put my money somewhere so I max out the "bang for buck" factor

Cheers

Stan

[E_Lu-SHuN]

i got more power then that with the same conbination too stan, just with diff turbo...

the Haltech sounds the goods but im still not convined will it work properly with tiptronic or D for that matter

[satanic]

You got more power because you had a full exhaust and a bigger turbo I would've broken 210rwkw if I had the rest of my exhaust on the car - damn people taking so long to make it!

Well the e11v2 has been given quite a big rep amongst the high HP auto boys... they said that they modify the loom so it's hooked up "piggy back" style - leaving only the gearbox signal intact.

I'm still tossing the options around though...

[E_Lu-SHuN]

ohhhh thought u had full zorst, my bad

but the auto boys are aftermarket auto boxes arent they?...is that your next step?

[silver gts-t]

hey stan

Tom at bd4's has been specialising in HKS fcon V & S for years

dont think at all that if you go down there that he will have to "learn" anything..

and i pressume u added the cost of the harness in the price of the fcon?

also PM me if your genuinely intrested in a HKS fcon V, may be able to help you out..

[satanic]

Hehe, shhh.... it's a secret that I didn't have a full exhaust on the day Just to say, 200rwkw is possible without a full exhaust (but not reccomended, it's the expensive way to do it)

Next step is to sort out exhaust (once it's fabricated), injectors and ECU. Then we tune for 240-250rwkw using the stock box. By this time I'll have access to a few gearbox options and do the transplant. Following that I'll be tuning for 270-280rwkw

The rest of the rwkw will have to be made up for using engine work (I hear cams make a big diffrence

Thanks John... Yeah, the cost for the HKS system will be about $1,800 all up (fully optioned) - this is an at-cost price.

The F-Con V, that will be different to the F-Con Is right? The only reason I'm considering the HKS system is because HKS actually says it works on autos

[silver gts-t]

you have fcon s "piggy back"

fcon v stand alone

[satanic]

Well that rules that one out I need the piggy back option otherwise my gearbox shits itself.

The other option is to go a fully manualized auto box - then we could run all sorts of ECUs (but that is cheating)

[Links]

Stan - make sure that you double check that it works on R34 GT-T autos..

Maybe get someone who can read Japanese to check the HKS site..

Or find out if anyone else is running one.. Just looking at the site myself, yeah.. it says "A/T" but.. that doesn't mean it can run all of them..

HKS sounds like a good choice otherwise..

DAMNIT.. google translate SUCKS ass..

Looking at this page in babelfish - it says R34 RB25DET - M/T..

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...on_harness.html

so.. double check it..

for anyone looking at a translated page on the FCON-V..

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...fcon_v_pro.html

FCON normal..

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...%2ffcon_is.html

Edited March 1, 2006 by Links

[satanic]

Babelfish my friend...

Up the top of the HKS site, you click on the 2 right buttons that are left in Japanese - it includes a list of all compatible cars.

[E_Lu-SHuN]

kool stan,

get the cam gears and i wanna see how much improvement on auto, then ill get one myself

[satanic]

Cam gears don't do jack apparently....

[E_Lu-SHuN]

im looking at the site...at the remark section, it says for MT...for ER34

doesnt say anything about the tiptronic....

[satanic]

Yeah on that table it doesn't mention A/T at all... except for the Fairlady Z.

I will double check on this, but suppliers say it will work 100%

[E_Lu-SHuN]

camshafts!!!

[satanic]

Tomei Poncams Type B

Then probably do the entire head while I'm at it

Should net me the extra 20rwkw... *hopefully*

[paulr33]

please note changing to a map sensor will give you less tuning accuracy so don't put this in favour because you get rid of the airlfow meter. much better to keep the airflow meter

[satanic]

Hmmm first time someone has mentioned that... could you explain further?

All I've been told is that a MAF will be better than the AFM?!?

[paulr33]

MAF (what u currently have) is better than MAP.

MAF measures air volume coming in and tells the ECU

MAP measures air pressues and gusses amount of air coming and tells ECU. The MAF is better for street cruising where pressure is jack all but varying amount of air coming in changes quickly and constantly. Also when on WOT the MAP will always say X amount of air and never increase as its reading boost pressure (fixed by your boost controller) and then telling ECU XYZ amount of air. Whereas MAF will always show an increasing amount of air coming in.

This basically means MAF will be more accurate on the say 20x20 map grid as it can move around very freely based on air coming in and always show an increase (ie: use the map resolution you have).

You should read up on how they both work to understand as it will affect how the car runs and drives. You should also look for an ECU with closed loop feedback (fuel economy) and knock sensor support

MAF (commonly known as AFM or Airflow Meter)

mass air flow sensor

MAP

mass air pressure sensor

[32vspecII]

get a bikirom board and remap the stock ecu . factory control of the triptronic and limiters removed , fuel and ingnition control .

much better than an interceptor device

Edited March 1, 2006 by arkon