Brake Pads

[Duncan]

Richard are you comfortable using a pad that doesn't work from cold on the street? do you get to warm the brakes before a kid runs out in front of you?

I reckon unless it is a track only car the pads MUST work from zero

[TokyoTaxi]

I bought the SSS pads with the understanding that they were a really good street pad and would warm up and perform very quickly

I've got to say, the BEST street brakes I've ever used were the EBC Greenstuff pads with the EBC Turbogroove rotors ! From cold they would stop me so quick I would get a bit dizzy. Shame they're so hard to get hold of and expensive

[writeoff]

I've used Bendix Ultimate, EBC Greenstuff and Ferodo DS2500 on my R32 GTRs.

I found the Ferodos the best and will buy them again. However I put on DBA 4000 rotors when I put the Ferodos on so they (hopefully) also contrinbuted to the improved braking performance.

I have EBC Greenstuff pads (fronts) in a box at home that have only done 4000km of street use. If someone is keen make me an offer.

[Beer Baron]

i always warm the brakes before mowing down any kids dunc, you know that. generally just do a quick burnout in the garage to make sure my car is filled with smoke, then use my ciggy lighter to heat my callipers. you cheeky bugger.

now, to possibly clarify what i said. they most certainly will stop you 'adequately' when cold, BUT they are not giving optimal pedal feel, or retardation i think. which is why i said not at 100%. they may be at 95% when cold and they certainly still stop well, but i dont know of any decent fast road pads that work at their peak when stone cold. include in that statement RB74s and ultimates (RB74s more so than the ULTs).

The CC-Rs i will use only on the track which is why i said i haven't used them yet. they (according to endless) work only from 150 degrees C. so are definately a track only proposition.

[LoNg_ShaNks]

Hi guys im a noob when it comes to cars but im slowly learning, anyway i have booked my R32 GTS into the mechanics for next week because the front end rotors need machining, brake pads replaced and brake fluid replaced.

1) The mechanic states he will replace the brake pads with RDA brake pads. Just wondering if they are okay or shite for my non turbo beast?

2) How difficult is it to flush out and replace the brake fluid?

3) and finally... I guess its a straight forward process for the machining part (you obviously need the right tools).

Any feedback is welcome, cheers in advance.

[operationsideways]

I have the Endless SS-S in my R33 gts-t and they are great pads. Little dust, good from cold, never had them fade on the street. The reason I put them in the Skyline was I was very happy with them from a previous car - a Silvia with standard SR20 brakes. They were a great improvement over a set of EBC Greenstuff pads I put in their previously.

Cheers

[Ronin 09]

The CC-Rs i will use only on the track which is why i said i haven't used them yet. they (according to endless) work only from 150 degrees C. so are definately a track only proposition.

I was using CC-Rs on the GTR, and I found them pretty good even from cold.

I got a fair bit of fade at the end of the front straight at Sandown on a 35 degree day after 4 laps.

I had only one week prior bled the brakes, using Castrol RBF (or whatever it's called) brake fluid... Using the standard drilled rotors.

Don't know how you'll find them, I managed to blue the rotors

Admittedly Sandown is tough on brakes, and I'm a track pansy....

Food for thought that last time I went out on Sandown was using RB74s (around 25 degrees) and didn't get (as much) fade.

See how you go.

I'm thinking of running Ferodo DS2500s with the AP calipers on the front - what do people recommend for the rear - the same?

Cheers

[Beer Baron]

I was using CC-Rs on the GTR, and I found them pretty good even from cold.

I got a fair bit of fade at the end of the front straight at Sandown on a 35 degree day after 4 laps.

I had only one week prior bled the brakes, using Castrol RBF (or whatever it's called) brake fluid... Using the standard drilled rotors.

Don't know how you'll find them, I managed to blue the rotors

Admittedly Sandown is tough on brakes, and I'm a track pansy....

Food for thought that last time I went out on Sandown was using RB74s (around 25 degrees) and didn't get (as much) fade.

See how you go.

I'm thinking of running Ferodo DS2500s with the AP calipers on the front - what do people recommend for the rear - the same?

Cheers

wow. that is interesting. you sure they were CC-R? because according to endless they only work from 150-850 where as the SSS they claim work from cold. i have stock 32 GTR brakes with the backing plates removed, DBA 4000 discs, nismo braided lines, cusco brace and motul RBF600 fluid. i did find the SSS faded and then heated things up so much i cooked the fluid. I was hoping the CC-Rs would be more stable. you have me worried now lol. as the dude in japan assured me they were one of the best pads to have for a GTR running semi slicks. but he definately said no good for street.

I am keen to give them a go now asap. will definately let you know how they hold up. hmm maybe i should have gone for the MA22B?

[lukits01]

What about project Mu pads? Arent they suppose to be brakes specialist as well? anyone with feedback on the type NR or HC-Plus, etc etc?

[Ronin 09]

wow. that is interesting. you sure they were CC-R? because according to endless they only work from 150-850 where as the SSS they claim work from cold. i have stock 32 GTR brakes with the backing plates removed, DBA 4000 discs, nismo braided lines, cusco brace and motul RBF600 fluid. i did find the SSS faded and then heated things up so much i cooked the fluid. I was hoping the CC-Rs would be more stable. you have me worried now lol. as the dude in japan assured me they were one of the best pads to have for a GTR running semi slicks. but he definately said no good for street.

I am keen to give them a go now asap. will definately let you know how they hold up. hmm maybe i should have gone for the MA22B?

yup, definitely CC-R - got them from Nengun...

Forgot to add that I was running std 16" rims with 225/50/16 RE55s', nismo lines, backing plates in place.

when i got them they were around 600 for the front / rear set...

when i pull off the std calipers / rotors / pads I'll have a better look at them and see how they fared...

Anyone know if I should run DS2500s front and rear if using AP CP5555 6 pot front calipers and std rear calipers on a 32GTR?

[PMATT]

I have just spoken Race Brakes Sydney .Ring or Email them at [email protected] or 029609-1101 they have brake and clutch parts road or race.They said anyone on the Skyline forum can get 10% off if they mention where they are from.

Edited March 10, 2006 by PMATT

[BHDave]

What about project Mu pads? Arent they suppose to be brakes specialist as well? anyone with feedback on the type NR or HC-Plus, etc etc?

I'm running the titan Kai's or HC plus (it's one or the other, p mu has recently released some new version pads and discontinued some others). Mine are the current generation 0-800 rated pad anyway.

I also run p mu scr pro 2 piece rotors.

I have no complaints. Cold stops are good (but not great. once warm they are fantastic. I haven't had them fade once, but i haven't had the car on a track either.

They are a bit dusty, a tiny bit noisey at slow speed with slight pedal pressure.

They shit all over my old rb74s for performance.

[Birnie]

Just went to order some replacement pads off www.discpads.com and it didn't go thru.

Rang their number and it's not connected.

..although there fax number still rings and picks up (on the fax that is)

Anyone used em lately?

[Roy]

So all these high temp pads that ppl say are no good on the street when cold...how can yoiu tell??? Do they lack feel, do they lock up easy, dont slow much, requir more pedal effort???????????

[Abo Bob]

Roy - you just put your foot down and it doesn't really slow down like it should so you push harder and harder until it slows down. Kind of like losing 3/4 of the vacuum required to make them work properly on normal pads.

I have just spent about 2 days reading forums and other sites and have decided to try some Ferrodo 2500's. Apparently they work from 0 but are a good step up form the Ultimates without breaking the bank although they still cost about $450 for a full set.

[VHR32]

Hawk HT10 for track work

[Duncan]

Roy I run the hawk blacks in the race car but drive it to the track so I haev to put up with them on the street.

They are great track pads (the fluid bolis before the pads fade ) but basically it feels like driving a car with out brake booster....gotta stand on em hard to get it to stop

[Topaz]

..... Don't buy Lucas Pads....

I have Lucas on the rear, Ferodo Formulas on the front....

[ellie]

sorry to revive this thread but I was just wondering about a few things

1. what are peoples experiences with factory pads= Bite, dust, noise etc.

2. what are peoples experiences with hawk pads specifically and if i get a set, is it possible/legal to get your discs slotted (As they are factory discs and practically new)

Cheers guys, your experiences are most appreciated!

[JimX]

A few months ago I put new RB74's back on the front because I was pretty happy with the last set, and Comp 9's on the rear. I can't remember where I'd read about that combination, but when I mentioned it to the guy at Racebrakes he said it was a fairly "normal" setup so I bought them.

Oh, I also overhauled my front calipers because it was sticking a bit on the right side (diagonal wear on one of the pads) and incidentally this also cured my brake squeal which was only coming from that corner. Although I guess time will tell if it comes back.

There's no squeal from the Comp 9's at all but I don't know how easily the rear makes noise normally. There is however this reddish dust on the rear when with the old (factory) pads I had no noticable dust. I reckon that the Comp 9's must be very dusty, because there's about the same small amount of dust front and rear now (RB74's get a mild black dust), when in the past when I've used Ultimates front and back the back had much less dust than the front.