Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello all,

I've got a R31 rb30 auto skyline ( ok, hold the applause LOL ). I'm just about to convert it to manual 5 speed. The next piece of the puzzle is the turbo setup. questions:

1. a stock reconditioned turbo setup including everything to suit a VL turbo i've priced at $1500, good deal?

2. The pinging and detonating problem?

I've been told many theories on how to get around the pinging problem that will occur putting a turbo setup on a N/A motor. Some of them sound a lil dangerous and dodgey.

theory 1: jump 1 tooth on the timing belt retarding it more than steady eddy!

theory 2: ram the adjustment around on the distributor so far that u put the bold on the outside of the adjustment bracket - too yet again retard the timing to hell and back.

theory 3: Use a spacer type head gasket to lower compression, retard the timing as far as the the distributor will allow you, then install a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.

The first 2 theories sound very lame to me, theory 1 sounds like a bush mechanic solution. theory 3 sounds reasonable to me. and yes the $1500 does include the WORKS, including big injector, turbo computer and manifolds etc.

The engine has 184k original on it so it should be rather low compression by now.

Can somebody gimme some insight??? thanx all.

We have better fuels now than we did in 1986 so the high comp issue isnt as bad as it seems. As well as the fact the VL had no intercooler. Make sure you get one though.

Go to the R31 link as posted by nismoid for a lot more info. You will also see that plenty of others have turboed the NA engine with success and have been running without drama for a long time. Some of them with higher than standard boost and making over 200rwkw. And this is without any bush mechanic mods.

My mates little brother is also halfway through doing the conversion and this is on an NA engine that was worked beforehand meaning it has higher compression at approx 10:1 I beleive. He is using an A/M ecu though.

i have done a n/a to turbo conversion on an rb30 and i had a few issues with it pinging to start with due to the fact i was running n/a injectors, stick to the following

1. make shore you are using turbo injectors, ecu and have an adj fuel reg

2. drop the timming back to 10 BTDC

3. use good fuel

with the above i was running 10psi and having no issues with it for 6 months, till i got done by the EPA and then the turbo did a oil seal.

cometic now make a 2.5mm head gasket for rb30's, they are aweseom seal well and should drop compression 1 point or so so should be around a boost friendly 8.4:1 or something like that!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
    • Great work Duncan, any events local you will give it a test once all done? 
×
×
  • Create New...