Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Brake Fluid

nuffsaid
 Share

Recommended Posts

nuffsaid Veteran

nuffsaid

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi all

whats the best brake fluid to use on a GTT? and how much do i need? and is it dot 4 4.1 5 5.1?

nothing overly expensive but something that will put up well with some harsh hill driving and street braking

i will be using Formula Ferodo pads at the front, and Ferodo Excels in the rear (they dont have them for the front).

alot of brake places have recommended to not use Ferodo DS2500 (my original choice, everyone says they rock) because they can get noisy. so going with the ferodos below this model this . i think this is fine seeing the car is normally a daily driver so need something that will perform well on a cold biteand emergency braking

my current pads (no idea what they are) just dont seem to bite down hard at all!

i will be bleeding the brakes, changing fluid, and machining discs at the same time

car was only complied late last year which would have meant that they changed the brake fluid, but who knows! some of these compliance people dont do anything!

thanks

Edited by nuffsaid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108054-best-brake-fluid/
Share on other sites
PMATT Explorer

PMATT

Posted
Posted (edited)
hi all

whats the best brake fluid to use on a GTT? and how much do i need? and is it dot 4 4.1 5 5.1?

thanks

ANY fluid is good for the road if you do a regular flush it prevents the fluid breaking down from contamination.

MOTUL RBF600 is a good fluid and has a higher boiling point

CASTROL GP600 the same and both good for hill climb or any motorsport where your brakes get hot. :P

Either fluid should cost around $25 a 500ml bottle you may need 2 as you will need to fluid flush.

When you flush the fluid run a clear piece of hose over the bleeder nipple and into an old coke bottle.NO MESS and you can see if there is any AIR TRAPPED as well.

Edited by PMATT
Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted

beware of using anything that is silicon based as can play havoc with seals, might be better to use a good non silicon fluid if it's a daily driver. afaik if the seals are new then you can use silicon ok but if they've been exposed to mineral oil then you shouldn't.

the 2500s really are good, and work well at low temp. i've used them on a GTR and they don't squeal with one peice rotors but are beyond belief with two piece.

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted

You might be the first person to ever say that their DS2500s don't squeal. :D Although some people have had good results using Wurth anti-squeal paste.

I reckon the DS2500s are a great sports pad. They don't need any heat to work well, and they'll cop a fair amount of punishment. Aside from the squealing, they will also dust up like you wouldn't believe.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted (edited)
Still no idea on what fluid to use? any other suggestions?

The ones PMATT referred to might be a little too expensive and unncessary for me?

Castrol Response Super Dot 4 (about $10 a litre)

Castrol Response Dot 4 ($less)

:( cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
Julzy Rising Star

Julzy

Posted
Posted

i've just ordered some dba 4000 series slotted front discs, ebc greenstuff front pads, and blackstuff rear pads for my r33 gts-t. i was going to put in some castrol response super dot 4, but the guy i spoke to today told me the fluid will be inadequate for the setup im running. he's reccommending i should use a racing fluid. anyone agree/disagree with this? would response super dot 4 be good enough? car is used as a daily, but will occasionally see some decent thrashing!

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted

The DOT rating for brake fluid, for the most part, tells you how much heat it'll handle before it boils.

So if you're not likely to hammer your brakes, and probably on a racetrack environment, then I fail to see how DOT 4 is "inadequate".

axelmasok Apprentice

axelmasok

Posted
Posted

Coincidental topic, good timing.

Just left Auto1 and remembered brake fluid while driving away with $200 worth of diff/gbox/engine oils...

I'll grab some of the Castrol super dot 4, but whats this about fluid flush? I was hoping that the new fluid is different colour so pushing out the old will be pretty obvious?

Was there a guide on actual bleeding here somewhere...which caliper which order...

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Coincidental topic, good timing.

Just left Auto1 and remembered brake fluid while driving away with $200 worth of diff/gbox/engine oils...

I'll grab some of the Castrol super dot 4, but whats this about fluid flush? I was hoping that the new fluid is different colour so pushing out the old will be pretty obvious?

Was there a guide on actual bleeding here somewhere...which caliper which order...

There will most definitely be a colour difference. The theory of bleeding is to start at the furthest calliper from the master cylinder. ie; the rear left. But I have never seen any real world difference.

:P cheers :D

PMATT Explorer

PMATT

Posted
Posted (edited)

Colour doesn't matter and just use a name brand fluid eg Castrol,Mobil etc

most std brake fluid has a boiling point of 270deg then it goes up to 310deg for racing .The main thing with brake fluid is to flush atleast once every year or earlier as the fluid gets contaminated from condensation etc .If you lift your cap off the brake master cylinder and put your finger in there check out the gunk build up, it happens.

The quickest way to change fluid is to bleed the old fluid out until the new fluid comes through.If you are picky the best thing to do is remove the reservoir and clean it out first.BUT it is always recommended to go to a brake specialist it costs about $70 to get a fluid flush.

Edited by PMATT
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Gary, in an ABS skyline isn't the passenger side closer (shorter pipe) to the master cylinder?

Don't know Dunc, none of our Skylines have ABS. The Stagea does though, I will have to have a look at it, it's due for a fluid change anyway.

:) cheers :P

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
Just something I'm renown for ..... stupid questions.

What's the who har about Castrol SRF? I know it's as expensive as hell, but is it what it says?

Does anyone know for sure?

Proof is in th epudding...there are a few Vic guys using it at sprints and thay are yet to boil the fluid in their GTRs. I use RBF600 which is alot cheaper, but im not convinced its as good as the AP stuff i use to use..so i wiull be reverting back to the AP stuff, may give the Castrol a go, only problem is iom having a play with brakes and dont want to be constantly flushing $$$$ fluid liek Castrol if its not required :no:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Milkmun
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • MBS206
      Can't put strut back

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • MBS206
      Can't put strut back

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • GTSBoy
      Can't put strut back

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...