Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know it's not a Skyline, but we all need a daily driver!

1994 (1995 Shape - AE101) Toyota Corolla Seca hatch, Super economical and reliable!

Good kilometres for age (185000), Automatic, Air Conditioning, Power Steering, Central Locking.

17" Wheels, Professionally lowered with Kings springs and Monroe GT gas shocks, Tinted Windows, Momo steering wheel, Sony CD Player.

If you would prefer the car standard I have all standard parts including wheels, steering wheel, etc to return the car to standard in which case the car will be $500 cheaper.

Just had full service and tune.

Registered till July 2006.

Body, paint and mechanicals in excellent condition, interior good condition, would come up excellent with a steam clean.

Only faults of car are that the driver's seat has a minor tear in the fabric, which would cost approximately $50 to have repaired, and the rear parcel shelf has holes left over from speakers which are no longer there. These however can easily be filled with a set of $30 speakers.

I'm looking for $7500 with no RWC due to time constraints (kids!!), however if required this can be negotiated.

EDIT, NOW $6900 WITH RWC.

I'm selling the car as I need something bigger with power, most likely an R33 Series 2 Sedan GTST Manual, or a Stagea, haven't quite made my mind up yet!!

Located in Melbourne, I can be contacted either by reply, PM, e-mail to [email protected] or on 0418 597 239

post-26224-1141475368.jpgpost-26224-1141475413.jpgpost-26224-1141475445.jpgpost-26224-1141475479.jpgpost-26224-1141475804.jpgpost-22758-1125078799.jpgpost-26224-1141475675.jpgpost-26224-1141475738.jpg[attachmen

=25514:attachment]post-26224-1141475904.jpg

post-26224-1141475549.jpg

post-26224-1141475865.jpg

Edited by private9

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
×
×
  • Create New...