Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

My alarm is farked so I'll be driving around without an alarm for next few weeks until I can put one in

I might be parking in some dodgey places and thought about removing a fuse in the mean time after I park the car.

Question is which fuse is the best to pull out and where is it? I prefer removing a blade fuse and not the type that is in its own box because its easier to carry around and keep spare blade fuses

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108343-removing-fuse-to-disable-car/
Share on other sites

Many fuses can be pulled out to disable car. Fuel pump, starter, ign etc. The one i used before i had an alarm installed was the ignition fuse from the fuse box in the engine bay.

A good idea when you decide which fuse to pull would be to replace the fuse you pull with a blown fuse. That way it is not obvious to the theif which fuse to replace.

My experience has generally been that they don't want the car, they only want what's in it.

Having an alarm didn't prevent them sitting inside and stealing the radio; so now I have installed one of those Jayco Screecher alarms (110dB @ 2kHz) - it certainly reminds them that they haven't been invited into the car.

Pulling a fuse is probably easier than disconnecting the AFM... and pulling the ignition or starter would give the same result as an immobiliser... so I figure most theives would assume that there is an immobiliser and just go to town ripping anything out of the car that they can.

Might want to wire up a flashing LED or something in the meanwhile. I feel much more comfortable knowing that my alarm has a flashing LED. Kinda deters theives from even bothering in the first place I guess.

What about one of those power inverters that give you 240v out of a 12v source? Rig that up to parts of the car that are metal but not grounded...

Might be better suited for electifying your wipers. No more parking tickets! ;o)

(jk people... don't do this)

I'll go with arh32, i have a burnt fuse I'll use to swap with my fuel pump fuse in the mean time, i think thats a great idea.
So good that now every bloody car thief who frequents these forums knows to carry around a spare fuse as the first remedy to pinch a car that won't start. (which is why I have never publicly announced my secret anti-theft weapon).
I feel much more comfortable knowing that my alarm has a flashing LED. Kinda deters theives from even bothering in the first place I guess.
You obviously didn't read my previous post - thieves could care less about flashing red LEDs.
Guest Xinhua
or hook up a switch to it?

im hooking up a kill switch on my car.

Thats what i did for my car mate.. theres a switch under my floorpanel.. very hidden.. can't start the car without pushing the switch.. you can put the key in and turn.. nothing will happen.. Works very well.. good luck

Thats what i did for my car mate.. theres a switch under my floorpanel.. very hidden.. can't start the car without pushing the switch.. you can put the key in and turn.. nothing will happen.. Works very well.. good luck

probably the best example ive seen of someone asking to get their car stolen.

saying youve got a kill switch - ok.

giving the exact location.... that shits just not smart dude.

I think it's good to flood the topic with information. The more people that give ideas, the more variety people can use, and any thief reading through will have to remember 20 different places for 50 different cars. He's not going to go through each and every one to find the "trick" to stealing it. On the other hand if we only heard about the blown fuse one, anyone without an alarm and without any better ideas would probably do it, and the thief would be able to casually check every car for blown fuses and probably get a couple easily.

It's probably best to use a combination of things. For example, pull a fuse as well as putting a kill switch in, or 2 kill switches in different areas. I've got 3 different things - club lock, alarm with starter kill, a separate 3 point immobiliser, and a kill switch. Sure you can always tow it but if the thief is determined nothing will stop him. The best defence I've found though is to not park it in dodgy areas.

Also a good idea for the kill switch is to not necessarily have it as one of those metal toggle switches. Something that doesn't seem like a switch to the touch, like a you press. A friend has a "toggle" button which you can push up or down for on/off. If you were feeling around without knowing about it you probably wouldn't even notice it, it would feel like one of those plastic screws you use for keeping the kick panel on.

a car i've driven before had a good idea. it was some kind of circuit linked to the starter. you had to complete the circuit to use the starter. you had to be touching the key with your right hand, and with your left reach down to a screw that holds on the left kick panel (side of center console) this would complete the circuit and allow you to start the car. quite a good one.

Well yes it can be towed. But opportunistic car thives dont have tow trucks at disposal.

As mentioned, if they really want your car they will get it.

A lot of my friends have kill switches and they are in some ingenius places, well hidden places and right in front of you places. Like using one of the factories blank switches and putting a switch there as the kill switch with "demister" for example. Multiple horn button steering wheels with one of the buttons used to complete the starter circuit. Another mate has a buggered electric aerial and you have to press the aerial up button to start.

But to reiterate what I said it can still go missing.

Mechanics are a good place where your guard is let down. You might of been there for 10 years and trust the guy with your life but his apprentice who started a week ago might need to move the car and ask "how do I start this thing". Then cut your key during his lunch break and....you get the idea.

Hey since you guys are tellling everyone your secrets about wiring and fuses now we have to do all of them at once so they cant guess which one it is! Or take the engine out with a crane and put it in our lunch box you morons!

Shut the f**k up and youse your brains!

Not everyone on these sites regardless if they own a skyline is trustwrthy!

I knew of a guy with a vl turbo with a rb25det and everyone of the performance parts he had on the car were ripped off other cars!

f**ks sake

LoL sorry. I didnt ask for any secrets

I actually pulled the fuel pump fuse out a few times in the past week and put a blown one in when going out, the peace of mind was more than worh it. I cant watch a movie knowing the car is not secured.

I got a very decent alarm installed on Sunday, I wont say what it is!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...