Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

who was the broker.....?

As I said before, I respect the rule of this forum and I don't want to post up their names in here at this stage, I really don't want to screw up anyone, even I have been screwed up in deep. However I will let you guys know once I changed my mind.

By the way, they are the memebers of this forum.....................

no they cannot be fined or penalised, and unfortunately when using your car for a sample car its the risk you take by making that decision .

Not true - a car must be complied within 12 months of it arriving in Australia, as per SEVS regs. I'm surprised DoTaRS hasn't chased it up and sent it back to Japan - or then again, maybe I'm NOT surprised...

Either way, I'm sure DoTaRS would be keen to hear your story, fullo - threatening the workshop with losing it's status to comply cars would help things move along a bit...

In this case, the RAW will not be penalised, you will be penalised as its your car that will be exported or destroyed. What i reckon is stay with what the RAW is saying till you reckon they are lying, then speak with dotars to change RAWS and Consumer affairs to get your money back.

In my opinion if you get to this point you should only try to get the money from the RAW not the broker, as the broker was only trying to help with compliance back then and has no influence on what the RAW is doing.

  • 1 month later...
In this case, the RAW will not be penalised, you will be penalised as its your car that will be exported or destroyed. What i reckon is stay with what the RAW is saying till you reckon they are lying, then speak with dotars to change RAWS and Consumer affairs to get your money back.

In my opinion if you get to this point you should only try to get the money from the RAW not the broker, as the broker was only trying to help with compliance back then and has no influence on what the RAW is doing.

Sorry for the late reply.....................I was really busy.

To skyline33,

The reason why I posted up my story is I really need to get the car done, not getting the money back from the RAWS or broker.

However if I want to get my money back, I am sure I got enough reasons to get my money back from the RAWS and broker as well.

Before I bought the car from the broker on Jan 2004, I asked him "Should I wait for a few more months then I can get another 89 year model GTR32 and import it under the 15 years rule? " he said "the compliance of GTR32 should be ready with in 3 months which was April of 2004, so I can pick up my car around May or June of 2004, it was still well before the GTR32 can import to Australia under the 15 year rule." In fact, he found the RAWS for me on Nov of 2004 and the RAWS used my car as testing car.

When the broker found the RAWS for my car on Nov 2004, I asked him again "Should I wait for a few more months? So I can import my car under the 15 years rule and save the money of compliance." he said " My car was in the car yard over 6 months already, it is not good to keep the car in there another few months. And if I decide to import the car now, my car will be landed Australia around Feb of 2005, then the RAWS will do the compliance of my car straight away, all the things will be done before April of 2005." The broker mentioned the 15 years rule is going to change as well, so I may not be able to import the car under 15 years rule, it is not worth to wait for another few months, then find another RAWS for my car.

It came out: my car landed here Feb of 2005, however my car is still in the workshop now and still hasn't been plated.

So don't you think I got enough reasons to chase my money back from the RAWS and broker?

If I want to do that............................

  • 2 weeks later...
Go see a lawyer

Actually I did, when I was planning to take some legal actions, the RAWS started to working on my car, then I decided to wait for a few more weeks.

And here is the update of my story:

As the RAWS told me, my car had been inspected last month and a few Discussion items came out as usual, so the RAWS needed more time to fix it.

I contacted them two weeks ago and they said all DI of my car had been fixed and sent out the evidence to RAWS team already, so they were just waiting for the plate.

However I went down to the workshop yesterday and they still haven't received the plate. I asked them, they said they don't know why it is taking so long and how long I still need to wait for.

So I want to ask you guys, how long will it take to received the plate after all the problem had been fixed? I asked someone, they said it shoudn't be more than a week. However they are not RAWS, so I want to ask you guys about it, any help will be appreciated in deep.

The plate should be sent out within a week if there no problems, i think you being playing around best advice is find another RAWs workshop and go to consumer affairs and try get your 5000 dollars back from you current RAWs workshop.

I had a friend who imported a Supra and the car was sitting at this workshop for 1.5 year becuase they were using it as a test vehcile but at the end they couldnt get the plate for it, they just ended up organizing to take it another place who had the supra compliance plate and compliance it there.

Niddrie Nameplates is the sole supplier for DOTARS' import plates and adhesive labels. Accordingly, if they are flat out there may be delays - I experienced a three week wait for my plate in 2003, as it was around Christmas. So it could be a fair delay.

fullo I don't quite follow what you meant in your last paragraph when you said that "they are not RAWS" ??

sigsputnik is correct, I asked my friend who imported a skyline r33 few months before, but he is not RAWS, he imported the car through agency.

To MFC05,

Can you tell me more about the story of your friend? If you don't want to post up here, you can send me a private message, thanks for any help.

  • 3 weeks later...

i just read thru this and cannot believe it. Get some balls and get something done about it. if maccas make me wait over 2 minutes i go off my head, and then they do something about it. This is a car. And your whole experience is not good enough. See a lawyer and see what can be done.

  • 5 months later...

Here is the second part of the story.

I contacted the workshop around July and he said RAWS team wanted to inspect the car again on August, I asked him the reason and he said he don't know.

On the mid of August, the workshop said the second inspection had been done, everything shouldn't be long.

I called him on September, he told me RAWS team requested him to re-do all the paper work of my car because the engineering he used on my car had been bad listed by RAWS team, so he needed to find another engineering and do all the paper work again, he asked me to call him back few weeks later.

Called him on October, he said the cost to do all the paper work again was really high and he decided to close down the workshop, he found another RAWS which already had the R32 compliance plate to comply my car.

On November, he told me the RAWS he found for my car was a fxxker, that RAWS did the transfer of import approval, then stopped to work on my car for few weeks. Then he said he will look for another RAWS for me and promised to me it won't take more than a month.

On December, I got a call from him and he said all the things was done, I could pick up my car.

He asked to pay for $800, because he fixed up some things of my car. He changed the front brake pads, because my car got the aftermarket one on it, the factory one cost me $220. He repainted the rear bumper and right rear guard, because of the rush and the paint faded, that is $280. And he fixed up a few things for RWC, that is $300.

When I picked up my car, I found a few more scratches and dents around the car, the 4WD light and Hicas were on, the jack was missing, all the pastic panels inside the boot came out, because they didn't put them back after they added the new brake light on the rear windscreen, the boot was messy and a few sand inside. The interior was burnt by the sun badly, all seats were faded worse compared when it just landed. Now I am sure I need to spend few more money to fix all the things.

I posted up this, because I want all the people think deeply before they decide to import by themselves.

I bought the car on Jan 2004 from the agency and picked up on Dec 2006 from the workshop, it took me three years and a lot of hassle.

At first, I was tempted by the emails from the internet agency and decided to import a car by myself, I thought it would be easy and I can save up few money. I should do more research before I made that decision.

And now, the cheapest GTR32 for sale on carsales.com is $16000, I paid over $20000 for the car already and I still need to pay more to fix up all the things before I can really sell it.

It gave me a big lesson and I hope it is the end.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain鈥檛 THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it鈥檚 fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
  • Create New...