Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I got BATML split dump, got all the gaskets ready.

Going to try to install it,

but b4 jack it up,

any tips or any advices that i should know? from ppl that installed them?

(just being cautious! :D as my last job fiting the the boost controller was a disaster)

cheers,

Edited by RBFIRE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108389-fitting-split-dump/
Share on other sites

i agree heaps of wd40... when removing the bolts, if it doesn't "feel" right stop!!! then spray heaps more wd40... i sprayed them 4-5 times leaving 1/2 - 1 hour in between before i even attempted to remove them... they came off very easily...

EVIL: if i saw ur msg earlier, i would be this f**ked atm. :D

it was a disaster,

I did undo them very easily, until the last bolt,

it snapped on me "oh snap!" :laugh:

i wasted 2 hrs and still glued hard in there,

i bolt them back so i can drive for now.

i [probly gona bring it to livo exhaust to get it fix.

I think i have 2 options.

1. tick weld it to try to unscrew it from there

2. turbo off, and drill??? hope dun need to go that far.

:D

am soo stuffed.

but it feel heaps faster. ;)

EVIL: if i saw ur msg earlier, i would be this f**ked atm. :(

it was a disaster,

I did undo them very easily, until the last bolt,

it snapped on me "oh snap!" :)

i wasted 2 hrs and still glued hard in there,

i bolt them back so i can drive for now.

i [probly gona bring it to livo exhaust to get it fix.

I think i have 2 options.

1. tick weld it to try to unscrew it from there

2. turbo off, and drill??? hope dun need to go that far.

:sweat:

am soo stuffed.

but it feel heaps faster. :banana:

Same happened to me only two bolts snapped. Enede up getting them drilled out and studs put in.. Also ended up getting my exhaust manifold redone as it had sheered the bolts due to distortion from the heat of the turbo... The labour which is the main cost is expensive.. Ie takes a good few hours! Just hard to get in there to wrok with not much room!

my case wasnt so bad,

Luckily the top Bolt was Snapped, wasnt the stud,

and it could easily be acess from the top.

Me and my friend, we got a welder, tick welded it and after few tried, it come loose, and sweet, didnt screwed up the thread either.

So i went to replaced them with all new High tensile Bolts and Nuts,

it is fixed now,

was plan to bring it to Liver Exhaust but i think gona charge me heaps,

My problem fixed all in 2 hrs of works, and cost 25 bucks for new bolts and RVT BLUE!

am happy!!! :D thanks god.!!!

just a warning to other ppl who wana DIY installing split dump,

1. quoted EVIL "if it doesnt feel right stop ---- more WD40"

and 2nd, if it snapped, if u got plenty of treads, use 2 nuts screwed them in, and try to undo the inner bolt.

my mistake was, i got like 2cm out, with treads, but i went and used force and stuffed up the tread, which is fcked myself harder.

well, lesson learn.

cheers,

  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I've got an RB25 turbo sitting hear, and it seems that 2 bolts have been snapped off where it connects to the dump..

Haven't got much thread so i'll probably have to get the drill out.. how much of a problem is this? I didn't snap the one's on my car, so when the turbo goes in can I still use the one's in my car currently?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...