Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Miko has a 2200lbs pressure plate, if that. It might even be 2000lbs. After driving a load of cars with 2500lb clutches I can assure you Miko's isn't 2500lb.

Try Rob's clutch before you decide. You won't even need to start the car to see what I mean. They are leg breakers.

okies i'll have a chat to Ross.

edit: righto just called Ross

yeah the 2500lb is a tad heavy but should hold 400hp

the 2000-2200lb which is in Micko's (correct u were rev) should hold 350hp and is much easier to drive.

this is with the DCB clutch plate (9 finger purple)

with the organic 9 finger jobs he said your better off with 2500lb pressure plate as then it will hold the 350hp but the 2000-2200lb may or may not hold it.

Troy/rev,

I drove Rob's car last night, and while I ddin't find it heavy in the slightest, maybe I'm too used to my twin and 4-puck, I must admit I didn't like the take up. It was most annoying to drive, even a short distance, so I would check what your getting and perhaps drive a car with it in first, cause you will be stuck with it for a long time.

See'ya:burnout:

Yeh, horses mouth sounds like the idea....

Just gotta get some fold behind me, then i'll go talk the sphincter of the universe with Ross.

But just wanna know a rough cost of _just_ the clutch, not the pressure plate job ?

rev210: What's the reason you only replaced the clutch, and not the pressure plate ?

Yes you are probably right , I think it was a 2000-2200 lb pressure plate in Micko's and mine.

What makes it easy with the GTR is the vacuum assisted clutch.

Do the R33 GTST 's have that ??

Cheers

Ken

Well its installed.... I got the 2000 Pressure plate, my initial feeling is that is nice and easy to drive, its easy on my leg and doesnt slip.... I just have to get used to the new friction point ( much much lower down on the pedal ) but that is going to happen with any new clutch...

Overall very happy.... I have already started on the approx 200k's of running it in...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The easiest option might be to just spray a bunch of fish oil in there.  At least that way you can feel like you've done something while you continue to ignore it
    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
×
×
  • Create New...