Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hye guys,

Trying to find where to get a O2 sensor for my R33, looking at getting and putting in myself.

Who makes em, i heard bosch my do.

Any ideas would be great.

Hoping to find someone on the Northside or Bris.

Thanks heaps

Rob

:laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108467-sorcing-down-a-o2-sensor-for-my-r33/
Share on other sites

Ended up using the Ford sensor in mine... Wrong plug, same sensor. Tried getting the plug changed at numerous auto elecs, Petroject, etc... ended up crimping it (stainless wire - no soldering...)

The were a few threads somewhere on here about which Ford sensor you can use.

I used to work at Petroject in Adelaide (same name different people though) & it was rare for us to charge more than $100 for any O2 sensor apart from stuff for some european cars. A lot of the time even if we didn't have a part number, we could normally match it up to something we had (if the customer brought it in) sometimes even with the same plug & all just different part number.

A lot of the manufacturers try to fool you into believing that the O2 sensor for every car is different. It rubbish, a lot of the time they use the same sensor maybe with a different plug & part number. I think it's highly likely the SR20 sensor is exactly the same as most nissan O2 sensors are very similar right back to the R31's.

As for the after cat sensor I'm not so sure we hadn't had barely any demand for them, though that may have changed since I left

Edited by Electro

All u need to look for on the sensor is that it has the same wire configuration, same thread size & hex head, & the same style of sensor ending. The whole sensor itself will look exactly the same because it is.

If you have to cut wires though crimp them with nice thick metal crimp connectors, don't solder them solder melts at too low a temperature for an exhaust system. It's also best to then put heat shrink over each join before wraping the lot up with vulcanising tape. If you do it like that you'll never have a problem.

^^ cheers guys i just hope it fixes my fuel ecconomy problems. I have cleaned the AFMs and am running a batch of injector cleaner through the fuel. I did a test that is specified in the engine manual i have and tested the resistance of the sensors, the manual said they should be about 2.6 ohms but i got readings of 3.8 and 3.9 ohms does this mean they are stuffed? I have also heard that the charcoal canister can cause fuel consumption problems, is there a way to check to see if it is functioning properly?

Well just for future reference for anyone that may look I just took a picture of both my R33's & my friends S14 O2 sensor. They were exactly the same with the same plug & wire colours. Couldn't be easier.

R33 Sensor

post-26413-1142246907.jpg

S14 Sensor

post-26413-1142247212.jpg

Mine is bunged, and I can't get it out! Took it into a workshop and they can't get it out either, they broke their tool trying to do it (had a 2m pipe stuck on the end for leverage).

Looks like I'm just gonna have to wait till I get a new exaust, I've still got the stocker :cool:

Good luck and if you find somewhere let me know, ive been trying to get 2 sensors for my GTR to no avail. The only place that has them new that i have found with them new is Nissan and they charge a premium.

GTR's cost $330 for the pair

One costs more than the other... no idea why, but the both have different plugs to distinguish them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...