Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As I already have a stock RB20 at the moment,

I am figuring out more ways to pump out more power than the dull RB20.

Was thinking of the RB24 with GT30 turbo and also aftermarket cams.

I know this topic has been discussed many times before but i cant find out the following :D

1. How much HP can this setup take ?

2. Whats will the compression be like ?

3. How much boost can it take ?

4. How much revs can it take ?

5. Is there alot of work that needs to be done at the machine shop to do an RB24 ?

Sorry for all the questions, i'm very interested to give it a go and i need the answers. ;)

Hope you guys will help out my little project.. :laugh:

Best wishes to all.

Edited by Auto Select
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108479-rb24-questions/
Share on other sites

I've went thru ALL of the links you've posted and it only answered 1 question of mine (no.2).

My mechanic, tuner and myself need to know the remaining questions to decide whether

this would be something worth the $$, effort & time, and where i'm at, there's no RB30 block at the wreckers,

and even if there is, we cant get it registered (legalized) because of the Cc difference from the RB20.

So please guys, help me if you can. Thanks. :/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108479-rb24-questions/#findComment-1999033
Share on other sites

there have been cars in japan happily making 600 odd HP using an RB24 setup, even using turbos as big as T88's.

Compression you've found yourself. Boost, depends really.

Revs, i've heard that you will get a 9000rpm rev limit using RB26 crank and rods, could be wrong though.

As for the work, im sure you can work it out yourself, look at the figures some people give (cost wise), subtract the price of parts etc, theoretically the rest should be labour.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108479-rb24-questions/#findComment-2013073
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...