Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

TEX looks oorsome!!. It reminds me of me of the 'Powerplay Imports' RS 260 we saw at Bathurst 4 a hill climb early Dec. last year. Was exxxcited 2 see my first RS 260 a week after we bought our 98' Stagea.

Feel sorry for people who make the mistake of underestimating that thing at the drag strip

has anybody had a mould made up before, what company made the mould?

Try MFX in Sydney

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=106194

I spoke to Jeff a while back about taking a mould of my Masa Stagea R34 conversion front guards

He takes pride in the quality of their kits

Then you can get them to make the front bars out of that flexi fibreglass

Believe me, it will not be the last time you will break that front bar

Try MFX in Sydney

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=106194

I spoke to Jeff a while back about taking a mould of my Masa Stagea R34 conversion front guards

He takes pride in the quality of their kits

Then you can get them to make the front bars out of that flexi fibreglass

Believe me, it will not be the last time you will break that front bar

darrin are you getting moulds made up still?

will others be able to get copies of the kit from you or mfx?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...