Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I got some mod done to my R33, Gtst

-batml split dump

-r34 intercooler

-35 bucks boost controller,

-K&n air POD

-3.5" cat back

i boost it to 10psi, but somtime spike to 11 or 12,

I am not sure if it will hurt the engine,

i wan to check if any detonation occurs

how to tell if my engine is knocking or not? i did ecu diagnose, i got code 55, which means all good?

cheers,

darrien

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108617-how-to-check-for-knocking/
Share on other sites

knock sensors work in real time, ie while you are driving they will be reading "knocking" and sending that signal to the stock ecu. the stock ecu will deal with it accordingly. theres nothing you can do about it. the stock ecu will retard some timing when it picks up knocking.

to view the current knocking you either need an aftermarket ecu that supports it, a knock sensor reader kit, or apexi safc

is there any syphtoms or signs to tell when knocking become dangerous? without geting either a PFC, knock sensor kit, or Apexi Safc?

will get pfc but in distant future, funds not allowed. :)

hope i wont kill my engine by then. :)

if you can hear detonation or pinging then its bad, it sounds like shaking an empty can of spraypaint, but more of a tingy metallic sound. if you can hear it obviously back off, the cause of pinging/detonation is generally too much timing (or heat). if its repeatedly occuring try turning the boost down if its the stock ecu.

it does have the capacity to kill your engine or cause problems if left alone, however the stock ecu has "corrections" around the factory knock sensors (assuming they are working ok) which tell it to back off some timing (i presume) when it picks up certain levels

if you can hear detonation or pinging then its bad, it sounds like shaking an empty can of spraypaint, but more of a tingy metallic sound. if you can hear it obviously back off, the cause of pinging/detonation is generally too much timing (or heat). if its repeatedly occuring try turning the boost down if its the stock ecu.

it does have the capacity to kill your engine or cause problems if left alone, however the stock ecu has "corrections" around the factory knock sensors (assuming they are working ok) which tell it to back off some timing (i presume) when it picks up certain levels

There are usually 2 ignition and 2 fuel maps for hi and low octane fuel for most Japanese Cars (Nissan, subaru, mistubishi and toyota). Knock sensors in early nissans are only active up to 4000 RPM under medium to high load(not sure on r34 and above). That means that if it senses too much engine noise in this map area it will then use the lower octane fuel and ignition maps. If it still senses too much engine noise it will not retard the timing above 4000rpm!!

If you can hear detonation through the firewall then it will be doing your engine damage. A good way to check for detonation is to have a look at your spark plugs and ckeck the insulator is not cracked, also you might see some pitting on the edges of the plug - this is more common.

Edited by rob82

If you want to be sure, get some time on a dyno (half hour should be more than enough).

Do you have proper cold air feed for the K&N? This is the biggest risk to get knocking; the engine is hauling in hot air from the engine bay, and hot air is bad air for a turbo.

The ECU diagnosis only reports faults; unless there is an actual fault in the knock sensors, the ECU will report "all clear".

My R33 gtst knock sensor shows over 4000rpm. thats a load of shit

the knock sensor is still reading noise of course, but i believe he's saying the ecu doesnt act on the knock sensor input above 4000rpm. i would imagine this may be because the sensor is receiving lots of engine noise above 4000rpm, but i'm only speculating, i've no idea if it's true or not.

no that is not correct. the powerfc is the only ecu i know of to make the engine light come on when knock > 60 level (adjustable level in datalogit).

what rob said is the stock ecu won't "consider" knocking levels over 4000rpm. the sensor still operate, just the ecu ignores them. the powerfc honours the knock sensors and display it on the hand controller at all times, regardless of rpm.

My R33 gtst knock sensor shows over 4000rpm. thats a load of shit

THe knock sensor is still active however the ECU disregards any noise it may pickup above 4000rpm. I believe that nissan turn it off at that rpm as there is too much engine noise above that point.

THe knock sensor is still active however the ECU disregards any noise it may pickup above 4000rpm. I believe that nissan turn it off at that rpm as there is too much engine noise above that point.

Thats not quite true.

Though u are close.

I use the stock ecu and with conzult it will pick up any detonation. It will spit out a knock sensor fault(code 34) if knock goes past the set level. I have had it spit out the code well after 5k and it will pick it up well before you will hear it too.

It will still pick up knock well into the revs.

On the ecu's ignition maps the ecu has a knock(self learn) area but this area is where it will keep increasing timing till knock then back it off a bit(self learning area). And this area is in the lower part of the revs (4000rpm and less).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...