Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, i have a r32 gtst that i have fitted a r33 style rb25det gearbox to. the r33 has a electronic speedo whereas the r32 has a mechanical drive. is there a way around this as the r33 type speedo drive is much longer than the r32 type. is there one out of another car i should be using??

has anyone else performed this conversion?

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

use red cog off bottom of r33 speedo drive. Get a 32 gtr speedo drive. Cut buff coloured cog off gtr drive, install red r33 cog onto gtr drive. screw in r32 speedo cable.

Done.

Ive done a post in the past, i'll try find a link.

photo below shows red cod of r33 speedo drive installed onto r32 gtr speedo drive on left. On right is std gtr speedo drive.

post-3692-1141773233.jpg

Edited by Bl4cK32

You can actually buy them from Lincorp Automotive for $100 delivered. The part has the R33 gear for the gear box but uses the R32 speedo drive. They did, however, send me the wrong one, so i had to swap the gear off the R32 speedo drive. Pretty easy to do. Speak to Tim 02 96845777.

Stuff paying that much!

Go get a nissan navara one for $20-25 brand new. Do the exact same thing as Bl4cK32 said, just with a drive that is new, and a lot cheaper! Part number = 32702 - 02G17 pinnion assembly.

If you dont already know you will also need a new clutch slave cyl, you will need the R33 one that matches your gearbox.

Now as I have just saved you money, please forward $25 to my account :P

  • 2 weeks later...

I am a little confused by this..

In this pic I have a R33 GTST drive at the top and a 32 GTR drive below

the thing that confuses me is that the gears are oriented differently, is this going to work if i swap the drives?

speedodrives.jpg

32702 - 02G17 pinnion assembly this part is the same as vl turb it has the wrong number of teeth ex japan from nissan change the 17 on the end to a 21 and there u go now anyone out there find this usefull please send me some cash it took a lot of buying of holden and nissan parts to find this out ah yes i have a r33 turbo bot in my 32 and my speedo works and its bang on accurate 21 tooth std 21 tooth replacement

32702 - 02G17 pinnion assembly this part is the same as vl turb it has the wrong number of teeth ex japan from nissan change the 17 on the end to a 21 and there u go now anyone out there find this usefull please send me some cash it took a lot of buying of holden and nissan parts to find this out ah yes i have a r33 turbo bot in my 32 and my speedo works and its bang on accurate 21 tooth std 21 tooth replacement

So can we clarify that the combination of drives i was going to use as in the piccy is not going to work?

They are both 20 tooth

  • 5 months later...
I am a little confused by this..

In this pic I have a R33 GTST drive at the top and a 32 GTR drive below

the thing that confuses me is that the gears are oriented differently, is this going to work if i swap the drives?

speedodrives.jpg

Im interested also!!

Im interested also!!

Yes, it will work. The R32 speedo drive is on top of the output shaft and the R33 speedo drive is below the output shaft. So the teeth have to be cut for the reverse direction.

:happy: cheers :O

Yes, it will work. The R32 speedo drive is on top of the output shaft and the R33 speedo drive is below the output shaft. So the teeth have to be cut for the reverse direction.

:woot: cheers :nuke:

Good info, cheers gary

32702 - 02G17 pinnion assembly this part is the same as vl turb it has the wrong number of teeth ex japan from nissan change the 17 on the end to a 21 and there u go now anyone out there find this usefull please send me some cash it took a lot of buying of holden and nissan parts to find this out ah yes i have a r33 turbo bot in my 32 and my speedo works and its bang on accurate 21 tooth std 21 tooth replacement

I am also still confused. Neo is saying the part number ending with 17 is incorrect and it needs to end in 21, hence 21 teeth as this number of teeth he says will make it accurate. But what has how many teeth on the end of it got to do with anything as isnt the idea to cut the gear off anyways?

Or have I missed something?

Looking up Nissan part numbers and specs the 32 GTR sender has 20 teeth whereas the 32 GTS4 has 21 teeth. But as I said it dont really matter does it?

Or has Neo not used the 33 cog and installed the Navara 21 tooth sender assembly complete and unmodified? I need to order a sender this week and want to make sure I get what is required. I will give this Lincorp a call as well and see what he has to say.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.
    • I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online.  People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of  "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff.  The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.
    • Yep, with the crazy inflation of the value of our cars these past couple of years this became a problem for me too... My solution is to transition to bikes. Everything feels so cheap compared to tracking the skyline lol
    • So, I've been a little busy on this car. I replaced the bonnet struts which is always satisfying but very confusing that nobody else on the planet seems to do this. Its just my routine first thing I do on any car I buy. The boot struts for both the tailgate and the separately opening glass window was a bastard. And, I found a fair bit of rust in the strut cavity. I filled it with rust converter and cleaned up as much of the dirt as I could. There was so much dirt. One piece of the trim was barely hanging on and so I've left it off. I'll try to get a replacement. You can see how disgusting and dirty it all was in this thread; I had to remove the little clips that hold the struts on the ball. The ones I took off had no clips and it was impossible to get them on with them in place. Fingers crossed they stay put. So, I turned my attention to the headlights, they were in a bad way and likely would stop rego. I took the headlights out and found the adjusters were all just loose. So, I fixed those and unclipped the lenses to clean them up. Couldn't believe how easy it was to take all this apart compared to the E90.   I also cleaned up the stockies which was awesome, these are super cool with lug nut covers. They're in good nic but the tyres are shot. I was going to use these for rego but in the end got a fresh pair of rubber for the 17's on the front of the car instead. The front bar of this car is from a late(r) model one. I don't think it's quite LCI but who knows. I'll need to find out. Anyway, the bar was missing the fog lights and the wiring and plugs were for the original ones so I got new plugs and some cheap fogs. I wasn't sure if missing original equipment would hamper my blue slip attempts. Had a couple of these little fellas helping out. But not Ben who got stuck behind the pool heater .... How embarressment.  I ordered new speed sensors for all corners because I knew one was out. I just got cheapies and will replace them with Bosch items when I can find Bosch items. Again, this was just for rego. Alas, it seems the blue speed sensors are not the same as the grey ones. Back they went and replacements ordered. In the end, with my new scan tool, it was just rear left that was shot. Replaced it and cleared the codes. All good now. Lastly, my aux (thermo) fan is being a bit odd. Its powering up at strange times and NOT powering up when I think it should (100C). While this can be caused by a few things, the most likely (for me) is the ambient temp sensor. Given mine reads -40.0C regardless of the temp, I figured it would be good to replace it. In the end, the sensor wiring was abysmal with (terrible) attempts made by somebody to fix it.   I fixed this all up but the sensor is only attached using pins into the wires. The plug is not there. Despite trying and trying to connect it securely it wouldn't work so a replacement sensor and plug is on the way. Oh, I also ordered a replacement piece of trim for the part missing here at the bottom. Ordered from Latvia for $70 delivered. I took a bit of a leap of faith because I didn't have the exact part number and, as usual, there were eleventy billion pieces of trim that looked to fit. Nailed it. Well, its not totally perfect but I think its more a 28 y/o car problem than a trim problem. And, as of today ..... I have bought the workshop manuals 2nd hand off a guy in tassie. 1000+ pages of E39 goodness, hopefully it helps me with the fan. I also have a new temp switch on the way incase its the problem. Stoked.
    • I don't even know that you want an M2 Competition as a track car. My rule for a track car is only risk as much as you're willing to completely total out. Clean stock C5 Z06 Corvettes out here are cheap. Buying someone else's already ruined track car is even cheaper. Maybe I'm just not that good a driver but even a Fiesta ST on the Nordschleife felt like as much car as I could realistically handle.
×
×
  • Create New...