Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The MPS will have more traction off the line, and the Commodore V8s run the world's widest gear ratios.

Standing kilometre the Commodore will smash the MPS, but quarter mile I reckon it'll be close.

Love to see some actual dragstrip numbers though.

The mazda 6 has recorded mid 14 sec passes and 0-100 6.4 seconds.Not exactly a slouch by anymeans and would show alot of LS1 commodores a bit of cheek down the 1/4.

i saw about 3 LS1 commys run 14.8 to 15.6 sec 1/4 last night at willowbank.

The mazda 3 mps is supposed to run 0-100 in 6 flat.Imagine an edited cpu,exhaust,cia and air pod with a tickle of some boost and retuned would see a lot of modded LS1 guys running scared :)

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

its weird how it gains 200kg over the luxury sports hatch auto 6.... must like that sound deadener alot

You're right. It must be sound deadener.

Because the driveshaft, rear diff, rear tail shafts etc probably wouldn't add any extra weight, and the turbocharger and its associated plumbing are made of ultra-light materials that wouldn't register a blip on the scales. :P

Its in the rear diff and shafts as you said.If you think they dont weigh much,take a look at the Ford control blade IRS in the falcon.Thats what made the falcon so heavy and will make the new VE commy platform another 200 kg heavier than the last model.

My 2 cents

The mazda 6 has recorded mid 14 sec passes and 0-100 6.4 seconds.Not exactly a slouch by anymeans and would show alot of LS1 commodores a bit of cheek down the 1/4.

i saw about 3 LS1 commys run 14.8 to 15.6 sec 1/4 last night at willowbank.

The mazda 3 mps is supposed to run 0-100 in 6 flat.Imagine an edited cpu,exhaust,cia and air pod with a tickle of some boost and retuned would see a lot of modded LS1 guys running scared :P

I'm afraid the only places quoting mid 14's are 'guessing' there is no actual 'test' that I've been able to find as yet. The 6.5 second claim is a factory one too.

same weight and 70kw not to mention 130nm of torque shy of the basic V8 comodore on offer, it would keep up in someones dreams.

I would gladly take money on a bet on how much quicker the new commo' would be if I were to take both over the standing 1/4mile. It's simple math.

This car is a 1639kg 'barge' it needs lots more than 190kw and a gay amount of torque to make it quick.

OR take 200kgs out of it.

Its in the rear diff and shafts as you said.If you think they dont weigh much,take a look at the Ford control blade IRS in the falcon.Thats what made the falcon so heavy and will make the new VE commy platform another 200 kg heavier than the last model.

The 4WD Porsche 996 weighs about 150kg more than its 2WD counterpart. And given how anal Porsche is about weight, they probably would have gotten it as light as they could have afforded in a $250,000 car.....

How about the Mazda 3 MPS Turbo Front Wheel Driven.

http://www.drive.com.au/editorial/article.aspx?id=11169

http://www.channel4.com/4car/gallery/spysh.../3-mps/mps.html

2.3L Turbo Engine from the Mazda 6 MPS with a Mazda 3 shell less the AWD.

184kw@fly (detuned) 380Nm Of Torque

Price from $40,000.

0-100km/h in 6.1sec

i reckon with a FMIC, Exhaust, Pod and a bit of boost and tuning this thing will be a little monster!

i around 1300kg (a bit heavy but still 180kw STANDARD trim!) haha

I'm afraid the only places quoting mid 14's are 'guessing' there is no actual 'test' that I've been able to find as yet. The 6.5 second claim is a factory one too.

same weight and 70kw not to mention 130nm of torque shy of the basic V8 comodore on offer, it would keep up in someones dreams.

I would gladly take money on a bet on how much quicker the new commo' would be if I were to take both over the standing 1/4mile. It's simple math.

This car is a 1639kg 'barge' it needs lots more than 190kw and a gay amount of torque to make it quick.

OR take 200kgs out of it.

Remember its AWD so it can launch alot harder than a stock commy.Not saying a commy wouldnt beat it but the 60 foot time will tell you who gets out of the hole first.

So has anyone actually driven one of the 3L 6cyl libs yet?

Yeah I have.

Been lookin for somethin to lease, and narrowed it to 4 cars to drive. 06 STi, Evo IV, Liberty STi, Liberty 3.0 R Spec B. I'm not into anything euro. And I wouldn't consider an MPS, they're too obviously based on a front-wheel-drive. The whole 4WD settup seems like tryin to p*ss around a corner to me!

I drove all except the Evo, which to be honest I went off when I sat in it and looked around it. No doubt a great car, and would be my preference for a targa car or something, but at my age I'm lookin for a little "feel good" factor when you sit in and drive the car. I've been through the whole "stiffly suspended and difficult to live with stage". They really are a tarted up shopping trolley - quality wise.

New STi was fantastic, especially compared to my last STi experience (an '02 STi Bug-eye) - handling much nicer (less under), and good (not great, especially compared to RB26) torque spread. Very hard to put up with the immature carpet and trim treatment though, not to mention the insipid body kit.

I ruled out the GT by STi fairly quickly, it's fairly obvious that these will be re-released soon as a 2.5l (with a six speed?), and I didn't want to be stuck with an orphan come trade-in time.

I liked the 3.0R most, great engine sound, great 'box, crisp throttle response, really nice interior, awesome quality stereo, clean looks (I'd go a black wagon), good ride/handling compromise, just a nice car. Not that fast, but respectable. But compared to turbo cars, no real opportunity to step up the power when you want to.

So, for me, I'd still go the 3.0R, I'm just struggling to come to grips with spending $55k when it looks virtually the same as the neighbors 2.0 base model. Talk about keepin up with the Jones'es!

Oh, and sorry about rambling too!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...