Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

okai so i jsut relised wen i turn the car on. on the dash is says "SLIP" and "TRC OFF"

wat does slip mean....

i no wat the TRC OFF means...but the thing is...i got a button under the wheel to turn it on...but wen i press it it still says OFF....isnt it suppose to be on at all times unless i press the button which means it goes off?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108799-r34-problems/
Share on other sites

You've got a problem and more than likely a big one. Chances are it's your coilpacks but best bet is to take it to a nissan dealer so they can plug in and see what the problem is.

R34's have switchable traction control its on the lefthand side next to the steering wheel. When the TCS is on the "SLIP" light will come on when it senses wheelspin. When the TCS light is on and it displays "TCS off" the slip light will not light up at all, but the car will do burnouts and whatnot.

I don't beleive any of the R33's have traction control, maybe the one's with an A-LSD do but i'm not sure, all other ones do not have traction control at all.

Edited by kralster
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108799-r34-problems/#findComment-2004534
Share on other sites

TCS & Slip light normally means there is a problem with the plug that attaches to the secondary throttle butterfly under the bonnet, unplug it and plug it back on see if the lights go back to normal.

Run a diagnostic check to see what error code comes up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108799-r34-problems/#findComment-2004746
Share on other sites

can i take it to any nissan dealer?

i swear i just got the car...and im already havn probs lol

If u just got the car, bring it to a mechanic or nissan who have the scan tool and get it checked out quick smart. If the car was from a dealer it should be covered by warranty.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108799-r34-problems/#findComment-2005103
Share on other sites

This is a common problem with the R34s - a lot of owners have come across this at one stage.

For me it was as simple as making sure the wires were connected correctly and firmly at the ECU. This was after the SAFC2 install where we hadn't tucked all the wires back neatly - it could be a range of other things too but that was my case.

Since fixing the wire arrangement, I've never had that problem again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108799-r34-problems/#findComment-2005784
Share on other sites

You've got a problem and more than likely a big one. Chances are it's your coilpacks but best bet is to take it to a nissan dealer so they can plug in and see what the problem is.

R34's have switchable traction control its on the lefthand side next to the steering wheel. When the TCS is on the "SLIP" light will come on when it senses wheelspin. When the TCS light is on and it displays "TCS off" the slip light will not light up at all, but the car will do burnouts and whatnot.

I don't beleive any of the R33's have traction control, maybe the one's with an A-LSD do but i'm not sure, all other ones do not have traction control at all.

Nope none of the R33 range comes with traction control, not even the ones with the A-LSD, my mate has one and his doesn't have it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108799-r34-problems/#findComment-2007615
Share on other sites

I am mistaken ><...nyways the secodary trottle, is that how a TCS works? the secondary valve automatically cuts off the air when the car senses slip?

so if I replace the TB to say Q45, will the TCS still works?

Edited by SKY 34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108799-r34-problems/#findComment-2013627
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...