Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Busky2k.

Are you on an SOHO Internode plan? :no:

From what I can tell it looks like it.

LOL How the hell do you know! :) Yeah I have recently churned to SOHO Extreme (ADSL2+ pending) at work! At home I have the Extreme Home plan. Gotta ditch my iiNet at my other house. iiNet are now ridiculously expensive if you aren't on their ADSL2 network. Had 3 accounts with them and only 1 left to churn to 'node. :D

not sensitive at all :D

Pain killers make for some nice mood swings. Or at least thats what my other personality tells me

:)

joking....

so so so bloody true, as you obviously know. man I feel for you. extremely glad to be off the hardcore painkillers, definately suffered from those unpredictable moodswings as well.

watever.. lol.. tell it to my gt3040 if i decide to go ahead with that... do you know if thats the right turbo? I was planning new turbs in around 4 months... not right now...

EDIT: I am thinking of leaving car off the road for around 8 weeks or so and doing mods to it and just turning it over every week for 20 minutes. What turbo would you get in my situation...? (And i dont want some ultra stock looking bored out hiflow quickfix turbo)

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t
watever.. lol.. tell it to my gt3040 if i decide to go ahead with that... do you know if thats the right turbo? I was planning new turbs in around 4 months... not right now...

EDIT: I am thinking of leaving car off the road for around 8 weeks or so and doing mods to it and just turning it over every week for 20 minutes. What turbo would you get in my situation...? (And i dont want some ultra stock looking bored out hiflow quickfix turbo)

If I were in your position I would do what I suggested (turbo wise) in your other thread

I don't like unnecessary lag which the GT3040 (=GT3082r) would have. The hot side isn't able to flow what the compressor side is able to provide. So you loose response and spool for nothing.

You have to match the comp to the hotside.

A GT30r with a .63 hot side I would go with the 52t GT37 comp wheel.

Discopotato has been having discussions with GCG and GCG are apparently getting some of these well matched turbo's in.

Discopotato03 has a thread in the FI section. Do a search and have a read.

not as yet, non-affordability issues :) (paid *poorly* monthly)

will go to John at Hitech next month hopefully....

sad; time to find a new job.

on topic - I lurve my computer. :D Last addition will be a G5 mouse sometime

i think thats a good choice

I also have a G5 and find the grip to be uncomfortable for long gaming sessions Brendan fyi :no:

G5 has the same grip as MX510?? if so might take you 1 week to get used to once you do you wont look back

G5 Ebay Store

please please please

bit of a plead for help here,

just replaced the CPU fan, its a Pentium 4 3.2ghz L775 chip, and put on a Thermaltake golden orb fan and heatsink. I used the white cement stuff as directed.

Now the pc wont work, power runs to all units (harddrives, cd drive, dvdrw drive, floppy drive, video card, usb card, and all fans). So power is going through the motherboard. However, the pc wont work. Press on, and the drives reboot themselves every 3 seconds.

I took off the fan and saw that the white cement stuff had gone down into the cpu chip. I took out the chip and found that white shite all in between the little pins of the cpu chip.

Would this chip be shagged? Ive got a O4 L775 3.4ghz chip at home I can try tonight.... any thoughts / suggestions ?

please please please

bit of a plead for help here,

just replaced the CPU fan, its a Pentium 4 3.2ghz L775 chip, and put on a Thermaltake golden orb fan and heatsink. I used the white cement stuff as directed.

Now the pc wont work, power runs to all units (harddrives, cd drive, dvdrw drive, floppy drive, video card, usb card, and all fans). So power is going through the motherboard. However, the pc wont work. Press on, and the drives reboot themselves every 3 seconds.

I took off the fan and saw that the white cement stuff had gone down into the cpu chip. I took out the chip and found that white shite all in between the little pins of the cpu chip.

Would this chip be shagged? Ive got a O4 L775 3.4ghz chip at home I can try tonight.... any thoughts / suggestions ?

How much thermal paste did you put on? There should be a very very film - certainly not too much that it goes onto the underside. You could have a problem if the thermal paste is making it's way to the underside of the cpu, acting as a conductor for heat - it's probably heating the underside and without a heatsink there's no way to dissipate the heat. First thing's first... remove the cpu immediately.

Remove the current thermal paste using Isopropyl alcohol from both sides and the heatsink face. Then check for scolding marks on both sides of the cpu - this could be an indication of hotspotting and will cause your cpu to act strangely (btw, this is what suppliers look for when you rma a chip, so they can tell if you've voided your warranty). If all is okay, apply some DECENT thermal paste... the white stuff you've got is probably non-silver based - get something like Arctic Silver thermal paste, and apply a very very thin layer on the cpu face with a business card.

Boot her up see if she keeps stalling on you.

How much thermal paste did you put on? There should be a very very film - certainly not too much that it goes onto the underside. You could have a problem if the thermal paste is making it's way to the underside of the cpu, acting as a conductor for heat - it's probably heating the underside and without a heatsink there's no way to dissipate the heat. First thing's first... remove the cpu immediately.

Remove the current thermal paste using Isopropyl alcohol from both sides and the heatsink face. Then check for scolding marks on both sides of the cpu - this could be an indication of hotspotting and will cause your cpu to act strangely (btw, this is what suppliers look for when you rma a chip, so they can tell if you've voided your warranty). If all is okay, apply some DECENT thermal paste... the white stuff you've got is probably non-silver based - get something like Arctic Silver thermal paste, and apply a very very thin layer on the cpu face with a business card.

Boot her up see if she keeps stalling on you.

Cheers mate, lol, I used it all !! doh. Thanks for the information, that is very kind of you.

yup, cleaned up the cpu chip and the insert-area as best as possible. still wont crank over properly (all power thru the system, but reboots every second as such).

damn I reckon I did see some 'hot spotting' on the chip too....... will try the P4 3.4 chip I have in my home PC tonight. If that doesnt work I think I'll have to install my motherboard and cpu into the work pc, and buy some new stuff for home (with a contribution from work).

One thing, this Thermaltake Golden Orb fan/heatsink I installed to replace the L775 fan, it wont spin round without me touching it to get it going. Is 230w not enough power to get it cranking?

IPA to the rescue... My tests on IPA in my fuel system will be conducted when i get my new turbo, do you see a way I can put out test results of 1 litre per tank of IPA vs the tank before IPA?

Cheers mate, lol, I used it all !! doh. Thanks for the information, that is very kind of you.

No worries mate. Yes, too thick a layer and you're actually inhibiting the transfer of heat rather than promoting it.

damn I reckon I did see some 'hot spotting' on the chip too....... will try the P4 3.4 chip I have in my home PC tonight. If that doesnt work I think I'll have to install my motherboard and cpu into the work pc, and buy some new stuff for home (with a contribution from work).

You can try your luck on getting it RMA'ed if it's still under warranty, but if it's scolded then your chances aren't high.

One thing, this Thermaltake Golden Orb fan/heatsink I installed to replace the L775 fan, it wont spin round without me touching it to get it going. Is 230w not enough power to get it cranking?

Did this happen prior to the frying of the chip? 230w is enough to spin a fan that's no drama, cpu fans draw on the 5 volt line anyhow. What could be causing it, is a) a faulty fan, b) the fan output on the motherboard (hence why i asked if this happened before the possible frying of the chip).

Also try to rule out other problems, it could still be as you say the power supply. 230watts probably not enough in this generation of computers. If you have a 300-350watt power supply handy give that a whirl. Also try having all devices unplugged.. maybe just leave a harddrive connected taking off all your optical drives and the like.

IPA to the rescue... My tests on IPA in my fuel system will be conducted when i get my new turbo, do you see a way I can put out test results of 1 litre per tank of IPA vs the tank before IPA?

your asking for trouble slapping a gt30 on a std car, then adding ipa to the mix.

Everyone here who asks about how there car runs, or what others think is going on should all read below -

say it out loud -

*DYNO TIME IS MY FRIEND*

No worries mate. Yes, too thick a layer and you're actually inhibiting the transfer of heat rather than promoting it.

You can try your luck on getting it RMA'ed if it's still under warranty, but if it's scolded then your chances aren't high.

Did this happen prior to the frying of the chip? 230w is enough to spin a fan that's no drama, cpu fans draw on the 5 volt line anyhow. What could be causing it, is a) a faulty fan, b) the fan output on the motherboard (hence why i asked if this happened before the possible frying of the chip).

Also try to rule out other problems, it could still be as you say the power supply. 230watts probably not enough in this generation of computers. If you have a 300-350watt power supply handy give that a whirl. Also try having all devices unplugged.. maybe just leave a harddrive connected taking off all your optical drives and the like.

Ta for your thoughts and advice, will test it over the weekend I suppose. Warranty has finished by 2 months. Firstly will swap chips between my home and work pc's. Both L775s, work is 3.2 and home is 3.4ghz. If the 3.2 works in my home pc then it'll be ok and its the power (doubt it) or mobo (possibly) thats the problem. Im thinking Ive fried the cpu chip tho. :(

your asking for trouble slapping a gt30 on a std car, then adding ipa to the mix.

Everyone here who asks about how there car runs, or what others think is going on should all read below -

say it out loud -

*DYNO TIME IS MY FRIEND*

im going for a max oversize hi flow now after further thought and recomendations. in fact ive recieved so many recomendations and others thoughts that it just isnt worth talking about it for another 2 weeks. im getting MTQ to get a rb25 max hiflow stage 3 wheel. any experiences with MTQ here in adelaide.?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • That's a short. Find the short. It will be somewhere between that fuse and the headlight. Start by removing the plugs from the back of the headlight and dimmer switches, and measure resistance to earth. Supply side (power from the fuse) should have none. The other side should have resistance compatible with whatever globe(s) is there (which is relatively easy to say for a normal globe, perhaps not as easy to say for LEDs). Anyway, if you have very low resistance, you defo have a short. Then you just have to run the wiring like you're running the bowel of a dog (on the operating table) that has swallowed something it wasn't supposed to.
    • Hey guys, need help figuring out why my driver side (RH) fuse 15amp keeps blowing. The Driver Sides Headlamp is out, i replaced these a long time ago with LED ones that were working for 1-2 years. Now, the driver side light is out and i traced it back to a broken fuse. I replaced the 15 amp fuse in the engine bay and as soon as i flip the headlight on, it blows the new fuse. Any idea what's going on?
    • I found the same with Subaru’s.  I own and love the SG9 Forester, after that model 2008+, Subaru threw the ugly stick at all their line up and somehow managed to make them look worse with every succeeding year.  lol
    • It's something we all have to consider as time marches on. Also consider lifted rally MX5 conversion at that point.
    • I should be fine for a few more years, whilst I do have arthritis I also exercise and do mobility training every day to keep as fit and healthy as I can, military life, which is the actual cause of most of my joint issues, has set daily regimes, which I weirdly enjoy I also train alot smarter now, not really focusing on lots strength or puffy muscles, I'm more focused on maintaining what I have for my future older self, I actually train as much mobility now as I do exercising Check out this "simple" drill I have been doing daily prior to training now for a while now, this has worked wonders in my all round mobility   
×
×
  • Create New...