Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im running a shuttle atm, keen to do some fan upgrades on the old girl, cos my current summer beat the heat measure is to just take the cover off.

can u reccomend good fans for them seeing as u have done the leg work with R&D.

my biggest issue with the shuttle is i have shoehorned 4 HDD's into it lol... does not help with the heat

Sadly, you're pissing into the wind with shuttles

They had the right idea with their radiator being attached to the case but what you'll need to do is

a) reverse the flow of the fan so its sucking COLD air into the radiator rather than using the existing hot air and pushing it thru the radiator out the case

b) get a second fan so it runs in push/pull configuration

c) get an 80cm to 92cm adaptor if you can engineer it into the xpc

Ultimately, I got rid of shuttle for 2 reasons - crap customer support (mobo died, they wouldnt replace it under warranty because I'd modded the case - WTF. and they wouldnt let me buy a motherboard by itself either) as well as the fact once u put a beefy videocard in there, summer is almost impossible to keep it cool properly.

-D

Sadly, you're pissing into the wind with shuttles

They had the right idea with their radiator being attached to the case but what you'll need to do is

a) reverse the flow of the fan so its sucking COLD air into the radiator rather than using the existing hot air and pushing it thru the radiator out the case

b) get a second fan so it runs in push/pull configuration

c) get an 80cm to 92cm adaptor if you can engineer it into the xpc

Ultimately, I got rid of shuttle for 2 reasons - crap customer support (mobo died, they wouldnt replace it under warranty because I'd modded the case - WTF. and they wouldnt let me buy a motherboard by itself either) as well as the fact once u put a beefy videocard in there, summer is almost impossible to keep it cool properly.

-D

ahh kk, i'll put new fans in and reverse the flow when i get a sec.

my phone line had been dead for the last 2 weeks. prior to that i had so much noise on the line i had to drop my line profile to adsl1 high reliability to even connect, i finally sweet talked telstra into sending a tech (i had sussed it was not a cabling issue within the house by patching a pstn phone onto the lead in cable, therefore i wouldnt be charged a damn thing)

just did a speed test on the adsl 1 high reliability

1004620800.png

much better than the 400k my modem was synching at before the line died

will test again when i have gone back to adsl 2+ annex M high speed

:) :) :)

f**k me if Fallout: New Vegas isn't the most frustrating game ever!

Been waiting for the game for a year + - bought it yesterday retail, installed it and it is all working perfectly. Played 2 hours, quit out, do some work, then play again later for another 3 hours. Late last night start up the game to play some more and go to load my last save, and when it loads the game crashed to desktop and says "FalloutNV has stopped working" and that is it. Many people all over the net (not all) are having the same problem. I have tried a shit-ton of different things and none of them have worked.

Dying to play more of this awesome game (which has already been patched twice since it came out a few days ago), but it doesn't work. Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo frustrating. :):D:)

f**k me if Fallout: New Vegas isn't the most frustrating game ever!

Been waiting for the game for a year + - bought it yesterday retail, installed it and it is all working perfectly. Played 2 hours, quit out, do some work, then play again later for another 3 hours. Late last night start up the game to play some more and go to load my last save, and when it loads the game crashed to desktop and says "FalloutNV has stopped working" and that is it. Many people all over the net (not all) are having the same problem. I have tried a shit-ton of different things and none of them have worked.

Dying to play more of this awesome game (which has already been patched twice since it came out a few days ago), but it doesn't work. Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo frustrating. :P:):D

Nearly finished :) just to rub it in a little.

i know this comes up a little for car parts but has anybody used an American website that ships internationally that you can either use CC or PayPal and is trustworthy

I think Andrew mentioned someone in the US who shipped his Rims over for him, a few pages back in The Wasteland.

**EDIT** Was actually Brakes, and they were www.comgateway.com

yeah only as a last resort do i want to use a 3rd party

i found CompUSA will ship internationally but they only accept wire transfers then tack on a $25us surcharge then i imagine thy put a premium on for shipping and handling eating a lot of the savings

now is the right time to get a 6870 1gb from the states its just finding somewhere

seems that i can get a 6870 from HB outlet for $288 then what ever for shipping

unfortunately what i read is it has a be less performance than the 5870 hence the pricing structure but then it would have more performance than the 4850's and be a proper DX11 card

still trying to do some reading about benchmarks and stuff

hahahaha love garrys mod

I used www.comgateway.com to ship my brakes Steve - were VERY easy to get along with and have much cheaper shipping than I could find anywhere else - $24 for the 1st 0.5kg and $4 per 0.5 thereafter .... so a 4kg box only costs $52 for example. But the beauty is you can buy from various retailers and send them all to 'your'/their Oregon address and they repacked them all up into 1 shipment and save you heaps. When I buy my plenum spacer for the V35 it is light but big (so gets charged volumetrically instead of by weight) - so everything else they squeeze into that box (up to the appropriate volumetric weight) will be free shipping.

helping a friend of mine with a sick pc this weekend / on win vista. how the hell did microsoft get away with selling this f**king shambles of an OS...?

People say that, and yet I've never had any issues with it :P pebcak? whats he done/whats the problem with it?

given the hdd format, reinstalled clean copy of the os. runs fine first few times. throw in all the drivers, few reboots, good as gold. do a windows update - reboot, f**ked. master boot sector disappears. repair that with system recovery, back in as normal. go to install a few apps, windows installer now wont run. repair that, reboot, then i get the "no operating system" exists message / pc doesnt recognise the os.

and i've done this whole process with unsatisfactory results around 4 times now since thursday night.

so pebcak you reckon? do enlighten me with a solution Dunc...

i haven't started ruling out hardware (except the hdd) yet.

I would say your hard drive is failing. Run a Seatools on it and that should tell you.

werd, or a generic SMART tool - check to see if its throwing any flags. Doesnt sound like something the OS would do in my experience

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...