Jump to content
SAU Community

My Mr30 Replacement

66yostagea
 Share

Recommended Posts

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

Here she is!

Unwashed but much loved.

Definatly worth waiting for.

1996 Nissan Stagea RS FOUR 4WD 2.5 litre turbo wagon

Automatic

90,000 kms

Green

17" VOLTARE alloy wheels

Aftermarket exhaust

Strut tower brace

Twin airbags

Roof rails

Rear cargo net

All power options and airconditioning

Factory rear wiper

Rear tinted windows

now a few questions :P

Q1. what is the fluid bottle in the right hand side of the boot?

Q2. what is the S botton to the right to the steering wheel? pic attached

Q3. and what does the 4wd light mean? I sore it on accessories mode but not when driving. Is it something you can turn on and off?

thanks guys

hugh

post-27144-1141880143.jpg

post-27144-1141880626.jpg

post-27144-1141881138.jpg

post-27144-1141881413.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108910-my-mr30-replacement/
Share on other sites
sy300 Collaborator

sy300

Posted
Posted

Welcome to the group.

It's a good looking wagon. I like the colour, mine's boring old silver.

Here are some answers for you.

Q1. The fluid is for the ATTESSA 4WD system. When you start the car you may hear a wirring from the drivers side towards the back, it is the pump for the ATTESSA system pressurising the system.

Q2. The 'S' button is for 'synchro' mode. It basically puts the car in 4WD with a 50:50 torque split. The ATTESSA 4WD is normally 0:100 (front:rear) and the distributes torque to the front as and when it is required, up to a maximum of 50:50.

Q3. The 4WD light hopefully should never come on. It means there is a fault in the system if it does.

I hope this answers your questions. Some other members may explain things better, I have not owned my Stagea for too long.

I hope you enjoy you Stagea as much as we all enjoy ours.

Happy driving.

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Welcome to the group.

It's a good looking wagon. I like the colour, mine's boring old silver.

Here are some answers for you.

Q1. The fluid is for the ATTESSA 4WD system. When you start the car you may hear a wirring from the drivers side towards the back, it is the pump for the ATTESSA system pressurising the system.

Q2. The 'S' button is for 'synchro' mode. It basically puts the car in 4WD with a 50:50 torque split. The ATTESSA 4WD is normally 0:100 (front:rear) and the distributes torque to the front as and when it is required, up to a maximum of 50:50.

Q3. The 4WD light hopefully should never come on. It means there is a fault in the system if it does.

I hope this answers your questions. Some other members may explain things better, I have not owned my Stagea for too long.

I hope you enjoy you Stagea as much as we all enjoy ours.

Happy driving.

hello

thankyou for the replys and answers. I now understand why my son spends his time on ns.com looking at all the differant things.

thanks

hugh :laugh:

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Here is the side pic of the stagea.

Showing off the Voltare rims.

You can also see my ageing MR30 in the background ;)

I bought it new in 1984.

post-27144-1141963134.jpg

Edited by 66yostagea
Terminal Grand Master

Terminal

Posted
Posted
Q2. The 'S' button is for 'synchro' mode. It basically puts the car in 4WD with a 50:50 torque split. The ATTESSA 4WD is normally 0:100 (front:rear) and the distributes torque to the front as and when it is required, up to a maximum of 50:50.

Just so no one wrecks their stagea assuming the split is 0:100, this is incorrect. The normal torque split is 20:80 until you press the button, or the car loses traction on the rear.Then it applies equal torque split. There was a thread on this button AAAGGGEEESSSS ago and we all went into great detail about how the button works

  • 2 weeks later...
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted

apart from rust under drivers mirror there is a lot of like surface

rust underneath. not thick but thin. is this because of salt on the

roads or from the customs decontamination?

i saw an electronic anti rust gismo at ythe motor show.

will this fix it?

D-limo Veteran

D-limo

Posted
Posted (edited)

The rust you speak of probably means the car lived most of its life at a coastal area.. Unless if snow can be partially atributed??

A good idea with any fresh import is to have a professional detailer go crazy on it (light cut and polish etc).. Will come up a treat. And of course new engine/gearbox fluids are a must.

Edited by Drift_Limo
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The rust you speak of probably means the car lived most of its life at a coastal area.. Unless if snow can be partially atributed??

A good idea with any fresh import is to have a professional detailer go crazy on it (light cut and polish etc).. Will come up a treat. And of course new engine/gearbox fluids are a must.

iamshe did the comp. all new fluids.

the rust i speak of is on the underside or the flor and rails etc.

any ideas

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted
iamshe did the comp. all new fluids.

the rust i speak of is on the underside or the flor and rails etc.

any ideas

another thing. look at roof near the 5th door on pics.

wot r those clips for.

the normal spoiler seems ti

o fit on the top of the back door??????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I would again like too thank Matt for his help in me sourcing the detachable hard top for the little red car, without Matt's assistance in inspecting it and locking it down, I can guarantee it would have sold before I could get up to see it,  and as that was the only available NC hardtop in Australia, I consider myself extremely lucky on multiple levels To say I'm more that happy would be an understatement And, it is 100% water tight, I drove through torrential rain coming back south, and by torrential, they type of rain that doing 40kph in a 110kph zone was a real thing, and even then, the standing water on the Hwy was deep enough to throw waves I'm also more than happy that the huge "BEASTS" that Matt calls dogs didn't eat me for lunch, I'm sure the sniffs and licks were more to "taste test" me, over being to friendly Now to work out what colour to get it painted, panel match, or gloss black........first world problems are real
    • silviaz
      R34 GT Indicator not Cancelling

      By silviaz · Posted

      Actually I might have figured out. Looks like there is a tab according to google images but it's hidden. Silly me.
    • silviaz
      R34 GT Indicator not Cancelling

      By silviaz · Posted

      No clips on this one like the other connector. Only that red tab that I can push slightly up.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GT Indicator not Cancelling

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      For any loom connector that has an obvious release that resists pushing far enough to unclip, just spray some silicone lube into it. You might also benefit from using a bent screwdriver or small pick to push in the right place at the right angle.
    • silviaz
      R34 GT Indicator not Cancelling

      By silviaz · Posted

      Hey all, I went to try and fix my indicator not canceling, but I couldn't remove the clockspring cable under the column so I could twist that green thin. Anyone know how to remove this cable? I see this red tab but didn't have any luck. I was thinking of unscrewing it but wasn't sure if it would cause issues. I did notice for my indicator stalk, 2 out of 3 cables were plugged in but the last cable wouldn't fit in the stalk. I'm getting it's for fog lights. It was like this when I originally pulled it off.  
×
×
  • Create New...