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Heya all,

I'm thinking to upgrade the internals on my Rb20 turbo, especially from ceramic to metallic components.

Is there a kit available like this, or someone that does it? I don't want to switch to bigger turbo or rb25 due to increased lag. I know rb20 motor isn't good for low-end power stock, so I don't wanna make things worse.

I'm not after huge HP figures, and would rather focus on the power curve and engine response. That said, I wanna run around 14psi as well. Is there a way I can do it with keeping the stock rb20 turbo, or have I got no choice but to get a bigger item?

My main concern is hitting 14psi and the ceramics inside the turbo giving way...

Its not really "cost effective" to do that.

Rebuild kit is approx $370/$400, could be more.

Then you need wheels and stuff from another turbo and balancing.

So it'll be upwards of a $500 affair i would imagine at the very least.

The wheels might not be the same size aswell, so hampering "early response" somewhat unless you do get something identical

Its an RB20, even with the stock turbo you would be used too poor low RPM response... i'd add a tad more lag in an get a 2510 or something

Yeah, but like I said, I'm happy to sacrifice HP to promote an improved power curve, and reduce lag.

Hence I'm thinking to keep the small rb20 turbo. Just want to be able to spin it at 14psi without little bits of ceramic coming loose. I've got a different approach to tuning my 32.

If there was a rebuild kit or a place that would rebuild it with more durable internals for around the $400 mark, I reckon I would take it up.

Would just have to upgrade fuel pump then.

I usually hate it when people say just boost it and see but now from many discussions with people with RB20 stock turbos that have run them at 1BAR for at least a few years now i'm starting to be converted, and lets face it, RB20 turbos are in abundance and cheap if some thing does go wrong. If it fails it isn't going to go back into the motor, it will fall straight down the exhaust (no biggy, just fish it out).

NOW, my beef with the idea of running 1BAR on a standard turbo is that you have now pushed the turbo out of its efficientcy range which is what causes excessive heat hence turbo failure! An RB25 turbo how ever will only cost you around $400 for a low km item and will pull hard to redline whilst only sacrificing 500 rpm in lag. These turbos are reportably not as strong as the RB20's but even at 12PSI it will actually be flowing more Than the 20 and is plumb in the peak power and torque efficientcy range.

To conclude, if your not after big horse power and want a great power curve than in my humble oppinion the RB25 turbo would be ideal for your application. And a bargain upgrade to boot = all bolts straight up and with a remap you'll be going gang busters.

Just look in the dyno thread to see the power curves achieved = SIR32 for one off hand

Hope that helps :D

Edited by ellie

Yeah, I've seen people on ebay selling rb20 / r32 turbos that they say are "t3" or "roller bearing", and they claim that these turbos are good for 14 psi, or over 200kw.

Are they talking sh*t, or did nissan make different turbos in the 32 range? Cos if that's the case, then it may just be a matter of working out exactly which turbo is on my 32.

Ok, not sayign you are wrong, but

NOW, my beef with the idea of running 1BAR on a standard turbo is that you have now pushed the turbo out of its efficientcy range which is what causes excessive heat hence turbo failure!

How do you know? Have you got the compressor maps for the std turbo. Have measured the inlet temp to the turbo, discharge temp from the turbo and then the inlet to the engine???

Ppl have claimed this for years, and i have always wondered where the info came from. Sure they may fail if you boost them up, but they are still making more power at the higher boost so i dont think they are cookign air or out of their effeciency????

Be great if someone could actually test this...my 2c run the std turbo at 14psi and your unlucky if you have a problem (on the 32s anyway) rather then wait for it to happen.

my rb20 turbo was highflowed by the previous owner of the car. He spent i think around $1100 rebuilding it with steel wheels, and machined the housings for larger wheels. Its supposedly a t3/t4 hybrid now. He seemed to think it was good for around 19psi. I wouldnt have a clue if it could, but ive pushed it to aroung 1.2 bar so far.

On my 3lt it should be good for about 240rwkw, atm its on 1.1bar and made ~218rwkw.

eah, I've seen people on ebay selling rb20 / r32 turbos that they say are "t3" or "roller bearing", and they claim that these turbos are good for 14 psi, or over 200kw.

Are they talking sh*t, or did nissan make different turbos in the 32 range? Cos if that's the case, then it may just be a matter of working out exactly which turbo is on my 32.

called a rebuild/hi flow :D

eah, I've seen people on ebay selling rb20 / r32 turbos that they say are "t3" or "roller bearing", and they claim that these turbos are good for 14 psi, or over 200kw.

Are they talking sh*t, or did nissan make different turbos in the 32 range?

sh|t talking, plain an simple.

14psi and 200rwkw on an RB20 - bullsh|t.

Dont go near ebay, its full of rip-off scams when it comes to a Turbocharged Peformance application.

I know, 'Hyper Performance' has jipped me on a skyline high flow cat...

Not worth taking up with eBay, as it was only $159 including postage.

That said, I might take it up anyway, just as a hobby... :laugh:

well thats what it costs for the RB25 aswell.

There is no point IMO - going steel wheel in stock turbo.

the costs offset what little gain you'll get running 1-2psi more.

Get a 2510, nice and small, give GOOD power with a great average

Just put in a bleed valve. easy to do, dial in 12psi... 14psi...

Should last for a while, and when it finally lets go, then get the replacement turbo.

If you are worried, count the money as spent before you get the bleed valve.

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