Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well the way I see it..

hks actuator is set to 1bar right?

so in order for it to be a smooth transition, it probably cracks open a little at a lower boost pressure than that.

for arguements sake, lets say it starts to open at 8 psi..

so you have all gasses going through exhaust wheel until 8psi, where it bleeds some out of the wastegate flap..

this opens more and more until it is open enough to flow only 14psi worth to the engine.

if you had a boost controller of some sort, it would stay shut for longer..

not all can do it but to name a few..

JAY CAR boost controller.

SK has posted on here about how you can pretty much keep the wastegate completely shut till the set limit at which time it will fly open.

this will give you much more kick in the back than just actuator control.

autospeed DIY boost controller

Once again good old SK has explained how good a device it is.

for like $100 of parts, you can build your own. it has 2 knobs where one controlls the boost pressure you want to run, and the other controlls at WHAT boost pressure the wastegate starts to open before fully opening at set boost level.

both the above have been posted on SAU.. search and you'll find it.

but then I think to myself... "the man has an HKS turbo on his car, he has dosh to buy jap Electronic boost controller"

at this thought, there is a world of options.

Most EBC's have a "GAIN" or "RAMP" funciton.. pretty much a fancy word to describe how hard the boost comes on, which is due to keeping the wastegate shut for longer.

GTST

Your explaination of a wastegate operation is not quite right.

Lets say your wastegate is fully open at 10psi.

When the wastegate is shown 5psi, the wastegate is half open. This is called wastegate creep.

With the Autospeed, Jarcar and other boost controllers, you are stopping any pressure getting to the wastegate hence bringing on boost earlier.

GTST

Your explaination of a wastegate operation is not quite right.

Lets say your wastegate is fully open at 10psi.

When the wastegate is shown 5psi, the wastegate is half open. This is called wastegate creep.

With the Autospeed, Jarcar and other boost controllers, you are stopping any pressure getting to the wastegate hence bringing on boost earlier.

I did say my example was for arguements sake..

fact is that his hks actuator which allows him to see 14.5 psi, is actually opening before that..

and a boost controller which allows control of "RAMP/GAIN" what ever you want to call it, will make the boost come on stronger..

even if he doesn't change the final psi figure.

also, if you've ever seen a dyno graph with 2 different boost settings (lets say 10 psi and 15 psi), the 15psi run will get to 10psi faster than the 10 psi setting. as you said, due to the fact that the wastegate does not open as early.

so as someonelse in this thread already said.. WIND UP THE BOOST

;)

i see fellas...

more boost is always the best remedy.

apparently i need the bigger injectors cos i dont want to be running insane pressure thru the fuel rail.

im gonna have a go at fabricating my own split/screamer pipe aswell. this might have an effect on lag as i might be getting some turbulence with just a 3 inch down pipe coming off the turbo...

ill get a ebc and wind the boost up to 17-18psi and hope that keeps me happy for 5 mins

the mines idea is not really an option, would cost a fortune.

I just have a standard turbo with a Blitz SBC I-DIII- electronic boost controller.

You can notice a difference even when you run stock boost(8PSI) it comes on so much earlier and sharper.

I usually run 10-12 psi depending on the mood. Having the EBC makes it really easy to switch between setting.

The EBC i have is extreamly accurate, as in +- 0.1 psi 90% of the time the other 10% would be +-0.2 psi (at 12 psi on a 8psi actuator)

I think even if you were to run the same boost with a good EBC you will be happy with the gains. And when the novelty wears off you have the facilities to turn it up.

That makes so much more sence... i always wondered why boost seemed to come on earlier and stronger on 1bar than on 0.8bar!

The wastegate opens later because of boost levels bein higher blah blah and you get more boost earlier. This is awsome because now i know i wasnt just thinking it, i knew it came on earlier on high boost!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...