Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it's time to sell old reliable to make way for a stagea

ok it's a R32 type m red in colour

140,000k's on the clock genuine

bomex front bar

sunroof

GTR headlights

4pot brakes

new rotors on all corners bigger than standard

R33 rims

toyo tgp tyers excellent cond

trust zorst 3 1/4 inch

new kenwood sound system new speakers in the front and sony 7 by 9s in the back

genuine car mats rare

rocker cover gaskets replaced and painted red the rocker covers that is

all belts and hoses replaced

6 months rego

R34 cooler

GFB bost controler

adjustable camber and castor

adjustable toe

blitz turbo timer

high stall auto with large trans cooler

v-spec diff and drive shafts

looking for $12,000

post-13070-1141893403.jpg

post-13070-1141893942.jpg

post-13070-1148164898.jpg

Edited by xr8eater
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...

as i said guys the first one with the money gets it no payment plans. its nice to have intrest in the car and dont get me wrong i will be very help full with making your purchase easy for you but if you dont have the money need i say more

this car will be sold or traded in before christmas

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
only cost $500 to convert to manual ????

It will cost you EASILY $1,000+ just for the manual parts (including new clutch - *recommended*) for the conversion. Obviously not including labour.

Edited by [mez]

i have seen some cheap boxes and conversion gear on the site. i have even seen one guy asking for a high stall auto swap for a manual and all the conversion gear!

all you have to do is search

Edited by xr8eater

im not converting the car so i dont care how much every one else paid for there bits. i know there are bargains out there my car is one and conversion kits are cheap if the purchacer wishes to do the seaching and home work they may be supprised at how cheap it is.

how much does a patrol (same as a skyline one) cluch go for these days not $1000 im sure

  • 2 weeks later...

Very nice car from the pics. Some interior shots would be helpful. You know you can now get a R-33 for that money. Not having a go, just being realistic.

Would look at it for a second car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So recently at the track had experienced a loss of throttle after a period of WOT after installing the emtron ecu, recently did some logging to troubleshoot the issue and found the ECU was cutting due to a low oil pressure issue. Going over the log can see that while accelerating at 4k rpm will see 100 PSI of pressure and holding steady at that level until getting off the throttle which then after can see as low as 25 PSI at 3-4k rpm and will recover back to a normal level after that.   Wondering if anyone has an idea what could be the cause as it just feels abit strange and i dont feel like it could be a sensor issues just due to it clearly sitting at a good pressure until off throttle, in the attached can see a 3rd and 4th gear pull but can even perform great through 3 and 4 gears of WOT but still once off throttle and getting back on it will see pressure drop.
    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
    • Cut sump up and extend. Win win 😂 
    • All, What's the recommended torque for the 1/2 head studs for RB30 twin cam conversion with RB26 head?  
×
×
  • Create New...