Petrol Usage

[GoldZilla]

9.95l/100kms?

That's awesome!

In fact, that's what I was used to in my standard AE92 Corolla (admittedly in city and traffic driving), which is roughly 700kg's lighter than the Stagea...

My best in the Stagea so far is around 12.6l/100kms which was a run from Sydney to Canberra with some Sydney traffic running, and a similar run on the way home with some driving around Canberra before the trip back.

[Ben D]

9.95l/100kms?

That's awesome!

In fact, that's what I was used to in my standard AE92 Corolla (admittedly in city and traffic driving), which is roughly 700kg's lighter than the Stagea...

My best in the Stagea so far is around 12.6l/100kms which was a run from Sydney to Canberra with some Sydney traffic running, and a similar run on the way home with some driving around Canberra before the trip back.

yes, they are pretty bad on city driving, can only get around 450-470 k a tank with stop start stuff (12.3 -12.8 L/100), but 9.95 L/100 out of a tank on the highway I'm very happy with. Its like a "normal" car, but with all the prestige that comes with a Stag. PS tyre pressures are 42 psi all round too - heavy beasts benefit from more pressure for both handling and economy.

[vice5500]

5km to the Litre of Fuel!

ever 100km eats up 20 Litres

Stock 4 door r33 series 1 skyline!

single turbo, maybe 2 never looked lol. think its one though

car drinks fuel like its going out of fashion.

is something wrong?

it got new plugs injectors clean.

EDIT by Ska: Made normal Size

[Ska]

Try posting in the general info section, this is a stagea section, and although we have 4 doors too, general running information is totally different from normal skylines.

[AlexCim]

big writting doesnt make you smarter.

[vice5500]

its called my first post i didnt know the size and yes i am smarter

[EGA41T]

...smarter than a pig maybe

[Terminal]

i severely doubt you have 2 turbos in an R33 4door. maybe it has mods you're not aware of, or you keep it in 1st gear all the time?

[Ska]

Well I thought I would conduct an experiment.

Firstly I ran my Stag until the fuel light just came on. Then I filled her up to the second click of the pump, 63.7ltrs of BP Ultamite, I usually

use BP cause I can use fuel dockets with them

Then run it until the same position on the fuel guage and see how many kms I could squeeze out of it.

So here is what I did:

* NO throttle above 10-15%

* NO boost, well do not let it go into the positive boost range on my gauge. There were times where it did go into the positive, but these were few and fair inbetween and it never went above the 5psi like a spike not kept at that level. I became an expert and modulating the throttle to keep the needle hovering around the 0 mark

* RPM match/speed match gear changes, still using the clutch.

* NO riding the clutch at lights.

* NO red light Grand Prix, not that I would, or anyone else here would....

* Driving along the route that was the best compromise between the distance to travell and the amount of sets of traffic lights to encounter.

* Roll along in Neutral when going down a hill, coasting to a stop, coasting along a flat piece of road, and generally when the throttle is not

needed to maintain speed.

* When slowing for a red light, try not to come to a complete stop and leave enough speed to easily accelerate using second gear, not first.

* Make gear changes at 2,500rpm or MAX 3,000rpm.

* Making most economical choice of gears. For example I was using 5th once up to 60kph, but if I encountered a small hill, instead of leaving it in 5th and using more throttle to bring on boost, down shift and use suitable gear that would keep me at the limit and not create any positive boost.

* Not going over 100kph. This was going to be 100kph but had to do a trip to Yeppoon and back, (~50kms), and the limit was 100kph so tried to stay at 80kph until traffic caught me then I would sit at 100kph until an overtaking lane and let all the traffic past.

Considered but did not do:

* Remove front drive shaft so that front drivetrain section did not take any load. Ended up not doing this as I assumed that since I was accelerating so slowly that the fronts would never be engauged.

* Turning off motor at lights or on extended downhill rolls. Ended up not doing this as the light changes were on average less than 45seconds, and turning motor off during downhill rolls could potentially be very dangerous if you had to take evasive action whilst in motion as all hydraulically powered equipment become sluggish. Also I would guess this to be illegal anyway.

* Turned boost down from 10psi. What would be the point in doing this, as I would not be hitting positive boost anyway.

Now about 4mths ago I had Mercury Motorsports do a "economy" tune on the power-fc, so I cant comment on the amount of power I am running, but was very happy with the tune for highway driving as they spent most of the time tuning the 80-100km in 4th and 5th with low throttle positions. Still the high % throttle positions felt great for delivery of power. Not even going to guess how many awkw I have atm.

So after lasting 9 days more than what a usual tank of petrol lasts me here is the results:

Firstly, driving around like normal: 300-350kms/tank (roughly)

Fall of Wickets:

Mark on Petrol Gauge - Km's Showing on Odo

Full - 0kms

3/4 - 134kms

1/2 - 169kms

1/4 - 154kms

E Light - 96kms

For a Total of 553kms out of a tank of petrol, (~63ltrs).

So it just goes to show you just how much you can stretch the petrol out to just by changing your driving technique.

That said, it has been the most boring two weeks of my life, on the drive to and from work

[munchstagea]

That's fantastic Ska!

Now you are a bloody Volvo driver, haha, goes to show what you can do if you put your mind to it and wear a very light right foot.

Cheers

Luke

Edit: did a little thinking on this the other day slugging up a hill in OD and noticing I was on boost with low revs and contemplating the revs/throttle position/boost/injector cycle equation... I clicked out of OD and I was back into vacuum all be it at higher revs. A true economy meter would be revs/injector cycle based, boost should be irrelevant but in it's nature is probably a pretty good indication of fuel consumption and efficient driving I guess...

Edited August 7, 2006 by munchdesign

[Ska]

Still, after work I am filling her up and going to drive the long way home and blow out some cobwebs and get my fix

[Silverback]

Best I have got so far is 370k's for a tank (City Driving). This is about 50kms more than previous best of 320. Thats completely stock apart from exhaust mods. Was driving pretty sedately though.

Gotta put on the DFA!!!!

[EGA41T]

my best ever tank was 450, which was when i first bought the car, and doing heaps of freeway driving, now with all the mods my worst tank so far has been 274kms... cant wait to TRY and fit my power fc

[66yostagea]

I"m still running 15/100. I too have to get the DFA fitted.

I live on a mountain and its VERY hard not to squirt it up and down.

[Ska]

well....... 66kms for 1/4 tank on the way home GOD DAMNIT I dont wanna go back to driving like a grandma.......

[Sydneykid]

Considered but did not do:

1. Remove front drive shaft so that front drivetrain section did not take any load. Ended up not doing this as I assumed that since I was accelerating so slowly that the fronts would never be engauged.

2 Turning off motor at lights or on extended downhill rolls. Ended up not doing this as the light changes were on average less than 45seconds, and turning motor off during downhill rolls could potentially be very dangerous if you had to take evasive action whilst in motion as all hydraulically powered equipment become sluggish. Also I would guess this to be illegal anyway.

Some random thoughts;

1. I have had this argument with one of the race team guys, who says we should turn off the 4wd on the straights in the GTR. My response was that since the front wheels, front drive shafts and front diff have to turn anyway, I can’t see how you would reduce the power train losses. Even you disconnect the front tailshaft the front wheels still have to turn, otherwise the car won’t move. So the rear wheels have to transmit enough power (torque actually) through the road to turn the front wheels

Secondly since energy can neither be gained nor lost, it really isn’t drive train “losses” anyway. The kinetic energy is merely being transformed into heat energy. Hence the oil temperature in the front diff should go down if the “losses” are less when the front drive is disconnected (ie; zero hydraulic pressure in the ATTESSA). So we tried it, guess what, down the straight the temperatures were the same. Hence no “losses” were saved by disconnecting the front drive.

2. On overrun the Power FC turns off the injectors (same as the standard ECU), hence as long as the engine is above the highest idle rpm, there is no fuel flow. So turning off the ignition would accomplish nothing (in the way of fuel saving) until the engine reached idle rpm.

cheers

[Ska]

Cool well glad I didnt do either of those

[Ben D]

Fall of Wickets:

Mark on Petrol Gauge - Km's Showing on Odo

Full - 0kms

3/4 - 134kms

1/2 - 169kms

1/4 - 154kms

E Light - 96kms

For a Total of 553kms out of a tank of petrol, (~63ltrs).

Man SKA, 96 km on the E - light, thats nerves of steel. I fill mine back up once it gets there and we've never put more than 58 litres in the thing, ever.

[IMPORTD]

I had mine on the redlight yesterday, ended up putting 56.7L in... can only drive like grandma for so long, so we shall see how many km's I get out of the car.

[Ska]

Man SKA, 96 km on the E - light, thats nerves of steel. I fill mine back up once it gets there and we've never put more than 58 litres in the thing, ever.

Sorry should have made it a bit clearer.....

The readings were taken when that mark was reached, so from the 1/4 mark until the E light came on was 96kms.

I can only do ~30kms on my light, I have done it before, and conked out