Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just posting up my bluebird to see what people will offer me,

im also open to swaps.

original owner had car dyno tuned n it made 278 on 11 psi, engine capable of holding 25PSI comfortably.

Car has Custom plates on it(JET FJ) Black on yellow

car has had over 40k spent on it.

List of Modes:

ENGINE

FJ20 Turbo built by V&E Rigoli in April 2004 done about (12000kms) since build.

Standar five speed Excedy Heavy duty clutch

Forged wiseco pistons, malloy rings, new conrods, crank shotpeened and balanced.

Hi-Flowing T3 Turbo built by Precision Turbochargers capable of 450hp.

Huge polished front mount intercooler

3inch stainless exhaust from turbo back brand new cat.

Microtech MT8 ecu and hand controller.

Turbosmart adjustable incabin boost controller.

Has 1 nissan GTR Fuel pump and lift pump, will sell with brand new Bosch 600hp pump and brand new carter black lift pump and Malpassi fuel reg i also have a solid 3/8 fuel line for fuel in-line.

The car runs 616cc injectors on the standard fuel rail

Pod air filter

EXTERIOR/INTERIOR

Custom orange paint

Custom front bar

Cosworth bonnet vents

Tinted windows

Custom leather interior With Skyline front bucket seats (seats, doors n roof trimmed)

Sparco leather steering wheel

Autometer monster tacho, boost gauge, oil pressure

17 inch gold lenso 7 spoke rims.

Two new tyres and two bold tyres.

Sound system

Kenwood cd player

7/10 kenwood speakers

2x6inch speakers

make me an offer n we'll go from there..

Untitled-1.jpg

JETFJRear.jpg

JETFJFrontRight.jpg

JETFJ.jpg

A11.jpg

A10.jpg

A9.jpg

A8.jpg

A7.jpg

A4.jpg

A2.jpg

A1.jpg

Looking to trade for R32 or R33,

but still open to other offers

Edited by AznBikerBoi
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108960-nissan-bluebird-fj20et/
Share on other sites

no i dont want to, thats why i said make an offer, obviously!!!

open to swaps!!!

$1500 then, as well it is only a blue bird...

That is why they ask for a price. To save people wasting YOUR time with stupid arse offers. Work out what you want for it, add $1-5k to that price, done, easy.

$1500 then, as well it is only a blue bird...

That is why they ask for a price. To save people wasting YOUR time with stupid arse offers. Work out what you want for it, add $1-5k to that price, done, easy.

ok personally i dont c the point of doin a price range thing, like i were to say, ok im chasing 7-13k, OBVIOUSLY ppl are gona offer 7k.

but im sure people are smart enough to offer abit more then 1500.

Put up some price. It's the rules. Your thread will be closed very shortly I'd say.

Common sense says you put up your higher preferred price and work your way down from there.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...