Hills Set Up For R33

[Mr. iNFMS]

Hey Guys,

I am yet to own a 33 gtst, but im curious to know what set up you guys are running.

Soft Front - Hard Back

Hard Front - Hard Back

Soft Front - Soft Back

Hard Front - Soft Back

I would also like to know suggested spring rates for your front and rear suspension.

A friend has been helping me understand the basics of setting a car up for the hills..

He thinks hard up front and softer in the ass end as you need some roll.

He also thinks too low is bad for hills runs.. (Skyline r33 is 1340kg if im not wrong) so theres also a bit of wieght to throw around..

This is my ambition.. anyone with any help please post below and it will be greatly appreciated..

From your fellow car modifier..

Michael

[Edge]

Sounds Right

Harder (faster spring rate) in front for better tracking, stops the engine weighted front from bouncing similar to increasing your front sway bar tension. Helps keep a more consistent weight on the rear wheels by shifting the weight to the rear as well.

Under hard braking I found in the R33 with standard set up the front springs too soft as there is severe oversteer under braking, the rear wheels just don't seem to have enough grip.

My current set up is very good fatter rubber on the rear and 60 rate front and 40 rate rear single rate springs. With the harder front springs I'm finding the weight is more on the rear wheels now. Must metion I've got whiteline adjustable swaybars set up. After I put a front strut bar on I had to loosen the front swaybar a notch.

I suppose the front strut bar might help if I have an accident but I havn't tested this.

Also this setup is giving me a nice drift position, only looses rear traction when flooring it in corners. With the fronts tracking perfectly.

edited for spelling

Edited March 10, 2006 by Edge

[Sydneykid]

Hi Michael, is this soft-hard stuff spring rates? Stabiliser bars rates? Shock damper rates? Rebound or Bump? Each has its own purpose and effect. And they depend on the type of tyre you are using.

An R33 GTST weight balance is around 60% front 40% rear. The rule of thumb rear spring rate I use to achieve traction for road work is ~180-200 lbs per inch. So to keep the balance you would want ~300 lbs in the front. But the CoG of the front is lower than the rear so you can run a slightly lower front spring rate, around 250-275 lbs seems to work for me. That gives sufficient compliance for riding the bumps, ripples and pot holes.

To control the roll you will need a good upgrade in the stabiliser bars, particularly the rear (remember that higher CoG). I have found the 24mm front and 22 mm rear solid stabiliser bar upgrade to be the most suited. Adjustables make it easy to tune the balance for driver preference.

That's a fairly big increase in spring and bar rates over standard, so you will want a decent shock with a large window of damping control. It will also need to good fluid temperature controlled as long public road sections work the fluid pretty hard and it can easily boil if there is insufficient piston area and oil flow.

Regardless of what you do to the above items, it all turns to shyte if the tyres aren't in full contact with the road. So camber and caster settings are vital. Very dependant on the type of tyre you are using of course. Around 6-7 degrees of positive caster on the front with 2.5 degrees of negative camber is an OK place to start. Around 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative on the rear, as you don't want to diminish the straight line traction.

Speaking of traction, a rear subframe alignment kit is a must, and remove the HICAS it is not your friend. . If you want more detail I suggest you do a search

The following link is to the Group Buy road suspension kit that pretty much would do the job, only a few small changes in alignment from the normal road setting would be required.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467

cheers

[Mr. iNFMS]

Thanks for your replies guys..

I refer to the coil overs I also plan on getting, probably Capital D or Tein's.

I guess i'll have to play around with these settings more when the car is delivered.

Thanks for your basic tuning. Castor, Toe and Camber, as well as the suggestions of spring rates.

Much appreciated.

Michael