Jump to content
SAU Community

Front Driver Side Park Light

skylinesome

By skylinesome,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

skylinesome Enthusiast

skylinesome

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys just wondering if anyone knows how to get to the driver side park light, Its easy to get to the head liaght them selves but the parks lights is another story.

Also has anyone had problems where they have replaced the bulb it and then a couple of days later it just blows again. Maybe there is a fuser somewhere the needs replacing or something

Any help would be appreciated. thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted

if its for an R33, its just a pain in the ass.

basically you need the hand wrist and arm of an anarexic 3 year old to squeeze into the little gap and turn the plug a 1/4 turn anti clockwise and it'll just pull out :thanks:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ross80 Rising Star

ross80

Posted
Posted

heres what is even more f**ked!

I had my whole front end replaced after a moron reversed into it.

Went to roadworthy car to re registar and dickhead panal beater didnt have park lights wired up and i dont know who to do it

Anyone know?

I am that close to burning this 33 to the ground?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 10 months later...
R33-GTST Explorer

R33-GTST

Posted
Posted
if its for an R33, its just a pain in the ass.

basically you need the hand wrist and arm of an anarexic 3 year old to squeeze into the little gap and turn the plug a 1/4 turn anti clockwise and it'll just pull out :)

Is that for the headlight where your turn the cap and it pulls out and then you twist the wire to pull out the globe? because i want to change the parker's light on the passenger side of my car but i cant seem to find where i can do that, i found the cable connecting to the parker's but nothing to access me to the parker's.

r33qw1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted

its really not that hard once you jam your hand in...you can see the white plugs that hold the parkers if you look down in the right spot. the passenger side 1 is easy as, and I can change it in about 10 seconds...the drivers side is more tight.. if you can be farked, un screw the washer bottle and move it aside to make the job easier

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Jon88 Contributor

Jon88

Posted
Posted
its really not that hard once you jam your hand in...you can see the white plugs that hold the parkers if you look down in the right spot. the passenger side 1 is easy as, and I can change it in about 10 seconds...the drivers side is more tight.. if you can be farked, un screw the washer bottle and move it aside to make the job easier

yer thats exactly wat i did, decided that i wanted the led blue ones, removing the passenger one is not too bad but for the drivers door i removed the washer bottle, be carefull with the plugs on it though because they may be brittle like mine were. otherwise a pair of long nose pliers with a cloth (to avoid damaging the plug) will reach the drivers side one i would think.

cheers, Jon

Link to comment
Share on other sites
dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted
37382488pi8.jpg

71923431ee2.jpg

26090343ry9.jpg

23079033kt6.jpg

i tried to find the parker's on mine to change the passenger side one, i cant find it.

What do you mean you can't find it? those arrows are pointing right at it....

that black plug, plugs into the white plug, and the white plug twists out and holds the globe....

Link to comment
Share on other sites
XXX-33 Collaborator

XXX-33

Posted
Posted
What do you mean you can't find it? those arrows are pointing right at it....

that black plug, plugs into the white plug, and the white plug twists out and holds the globe....

LoL, i tried to twist the bastard out but was cautious because i thought it was going to break, is there are certain way i need to twist like clockwise or somthing?

thanks for the advice dezz :happy:.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted

when standing facing the car, turn it a 1/4 turn clockwise I think...dont quote me coz I can never remember until i'm actually doing it, but it will only go 1 way, just dont try to force it in case you're turning it the wrong way, if it doesn't move, then go the other way :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
XXX-33 Collaborator

XXX-33

Posted
Posted
when standing facing the car, turn it a 1/4 turn clockwise I think...dont quote me coz I can never remember until i'm actually doing it, but it will only go 1 way, just dont try to force it in case you're turning it the wrong way, if it doesn't move, then go the other way :/

thanks alot dezz, parker is fixed, i owe you a beer if the oppurtunity ever arise's, thanks heaps champ.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      R32 GTS/GTST non driven wheel speed

      By Roy · Posted

      Another complicated thing is to run Z32 alloy hubs which have wheel speed sensors for ABS. You need different tie rod end, and you need new bearings on the upright etc. I did that as part of a major refresh when my front kingpin bearing flogged out., Alloy was a little lighter, runs a bigger bearing , gives a few extra mm in wheelbase as it moves the wheel forward in the arch (cant run crazy but can still get 8ish comfortably).   All in all glad I did it but was a head fark as tried it once and abandoned it the first time. sav man swung his spanners at it and got it working so using his guidance on GTR/Z32 tie rod ends etc and the required mismatch of parts was able to make it work.  Probably a 2k upgrade all said and done :(   I think the best bet is just look around your front wheel and see what you can pick up rotationally. You see old Escorts, E30s etc all get very creative with front uprights and the humble old angled alloy bracket.
    • Butters
      Garrett G-XRace Range

      By Butters · Posted

      Big claims here.  Any links up on the website ?   
    • Butters
      RB gearbox options

      By Butters · Posted

      If your HP goal is reasonable and you are not drifting. Buy a new R34 box.  If the above is not true, buy a wrecked R33 box and put a gearset in it.  CD09 are not as strong as you think and the cost of / mess around of the conversion puts you in gearset territory.    Also the deal above is awesome,, get that  
    • dbm7
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this... ..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway.... ...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this... ....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)... ...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...
    • GTSBoy
      Fake ARP bolts?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
×
×
  • Create New...