Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Last week my oxygen sensor plug fell onto the dump pipe of my exhaust. Now i've had to re-wire the 02 sensor (cut it before the plug cause it was absolutely f**ked) And since then ive been getting 0v :P So I'm more than guessing ive hooked it up the wrong way (scan tool to check voltages)

The pic I have attached is of the 3 wires... One of the wires have like, 2 different wires surrounding the central wire.. anyways ill show u the pic.

please let me know ASAP as my fuel consumption is absolutely herrendous.. lol!

Thanks in advance

(ive tried searching to know availe)

post-22530-1142056593.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109199-02-sensor-wire/
Share on other sites

does anybody know?

Can I even re-wire them? please help... noob to auto electronics..

EDIT: Ok, ive done a bit more research, it seems there is some sort of shielded ground on one of the wires, what do i do with that?

Also, i noticed that one of the o2 wires is connected to the AAC valve... hmm.. this would cause idle problems im more than guessing...

this is so damn confusing!#%!@#

Edited by Mumbo#5
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109199-02-sensor-wire/#findComment-2011557
Share on other sites

does anybody know?

Can I even re-wire them? please help... noob to auto electronics..

The light blue wire with the white stripe is the power feed for the heater and light brown wire with white stripe is the heater earth wire (pin115). The shielded wire (quote "One of the wires have like, 2 different wires surrounding the central wire.. ") is the ECU signal wire (pin29).

The light blue wire should have about batt voltage when you turn the ignition on.

The light blue wire with white stripe should be connected to one of the white wires and the other white wire connected to the light brown wire with white stripe. It shouldn’t really matter which white wire you use as they both connect to the 2 sides of a resister (according to the wiring diagram). I confirmed continuity and a resistance of about 4 ohms. The heater is used to bring the O2 sensor up to temp quickly which is useful on cold starts. The O2 sensor should work without these 2 wires connected.

The remaining black wire should be connected to the shielded wire as this is signal wire for the ECU. It is important you connect this wire if nothing else.

Hope this helps.

Ben

post-16836-1142067759.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109199-02-sensor-wire/#findComment-2011647
Share on other sites

You are awesome! thanks heaps mate..

with the shield ground, i should just strip the shield wire down a bit more and make sure only the copper wire is touching the sensor on the o2 sensor.. my understanding of a shield wire is that it is only grounded at one end, and im guessing its gonna be grounded at the ECU.

ill go try now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109199-02-sensor-wire/#findComment-2011655
Share on other sites

with the shield ground, i should just strip the shield wire down a bit more and make sure only the copper wire is touching the sensor on the o2 sensor.. my understanding of a shield wire is that it is only grounded at one end, and im guessing its gonna be grounded at the ECU.

ill go try now

Spot on!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109199-02-sensor-wire/#findComment-2011684
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...