Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as topic says, im currently bleeding my brakes and ive done all 4 wheels, but ive been told i gotta do the abs unit as well, and i have a r32 gtr workshop manual and it shows they have 2 nipples on top of the unit, but the stagea one doesnt, it has 2 lines running off the top. no nipplies in sight, any ideas????

wish funkymonkey would send me that damn workshop manual and i'd know :no:

I got my mechanic to replace the brake fluid on one of my services, and i dont think he even looked at the ABS unit, infact i'm sure he didn't cos i watched the whole process.

He just bled the brakes as u normally would with a car without ABS, and the brakes are fine.

That service manual would be handy for things like this :no:

Is there any reason you cant just crack open the connectors on any of the five pipes on the ABS. If you follow the pipes from the brake booster it seems that they all go through the ABS. When the ABS is in operation it simply overides the pressure you are exerting thru the pedal.

The S2 has 5 pipes - 2 inlet and 3 outlets - Front left, front right and a single for the rear.

I am sure I dont need to tell you to have a hose ready and wash off any brake fluid asap before it spoils your shiney engine bay.

I just did the brakes on mine last weekend and I just bled them as I would any non abs equipped car and it is working great. Using bendix ultimates front and advance rear (was lucky enough to find these at Autobarn), castrol srf and standard machined rotors (will do a dba upgrade next time). I haven't had a chance to give it a real work out yet but the preformace is better than I had thought it was going to be. I can easially activate the ABS with out to much effort at all and very little pedal movement is required. So I don't think it matters much but if you find out how to do it then I would anyway. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...