Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey kiddies

Anyone slapped a GT-RS in there rb25det ??? I'm mainly just looking for some dyno graphs please and peoples comments who *actualy* have/had the turbo in there car.

Im trying to decide weather to get a gt-rs or a 2535, I know the gtrs is bigger but i wouldnt mind that if its not that much laggier.

Im sure theres 10000 ppl who have got one, and i did try seaching :no: could only find 1 referance which was in the sticky rb25det turbo upgrade thread :D

thanks :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109249-hks-gt-rs-rb25det/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Back when i was looking at power graphs etc... they seemed to range from 230-260rwkw for the most part, with the occasional freak 290 or so. one guy has over 300!

You'll be right on the cusp of needing injectors (i did mine) or a fuel reg and a Z32afm (i also did this).

Much of a muchness between the GTRS and the GCG Hiflow.

very happy with my choice.

good luck!

cool thanks again :D Sounds like it wont be to laggy at all :D

I know everyone uses a diff dyno and 10000 factors can change your reading but i thought people were making like 240ish kw @ 14psi with the 2535's ? I thought the GTRS would make slightly more power at the same psi??

^ i pulled 251 on a different dyno (friend of a friend works on commo's a lot in his shop and has one).

And as i said, people are making a reliable 260rwkw on that turbo, different cars, different dyno, different day.

I don't have aftermarket cams, maybe some of those do?

For what it's worth, a friend's ~260rwkw 200SX runs neck and neck with my lowly 230kw. He gets a fatter number on his dyno sheet. I still manage to sleep soundly at night. :D

Now please dont take this the wrong way. I find it hard to beleive a turbo that looks identical to the stock s14 sr20 t28 with simply a 71 compressor wheel could put out in the 250-260rwkw range....its not the 71 compressor I find unbeleivable, but the small 0.64 exhaust housing with 53mm turbine...

I have one in front of me now, and dam it looks so small (the 0.64 housing).

This thread is about dyno sheets and the HKSGTRS, how about some times sheets to go with it..??

BTW, out goes the door for my GT30r and in for the gtrs :P

I'd hazard a guess the two dyno sheets in this thread so far are a lot more closer than the 40rwkw difference it looks at face value.

The 230 sheet was NOT in shootut mode and done in January which is summer so if it was a hot day it would of read higher in shootout mode.

The 270 was in shootout mode but with an inlet temp of 53 so had it not been in shootout it would of read lower.

see now uve complicated the issue :) hehe thanks though.

would i be correct in saying that the gt-rs will give you the highest figure with the right mods ?

like i've seen a few gtrs graphs that are 270-300kw or so... can you get that sorta figure with a 2535 ?

Just as a direct comparison, on the same Racepace dyno:

2535 at 14psi....

see now uve complicated the issue :) hehe thanks though.

would i be correct in saying that the gt-rs will give you the highest figure with the right mods ?

like i've seen a few gtrs graphs that are 270-300kw or so... can you get that sorta figure with a 2535 ?

ive never seen a 2535 with that sort of power but u wont want any more than what i have now... they are a great turbo, and you can pick them up cheap! im more than happy to show you how they go!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...