Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey kiddies

Anyone slapped a GT-RS in there rb25det ??? I'm mainly just looking for some dyno graphs please and peoples comments who *actualy* have/had the turbo in there car.

Im trying to decide weather to get a gt-rs or a 2535, I know the gtrs is bigger but i wouldnt mind that if its not that much laggier.

Im sure theres 10000 ppl who have got one, and i did try seaching :no: could only find 1 referance which was in the sticky rb25det turbo upgrade thread :D

thanks :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109249-hks-gt-rs-rb25det/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Back when i was looking at power graphs etc... they seemed to range from 230-260rwkw for the most part, with the occasional freak 290 or so. one guy has over 300!

You'll be right on the cusp of needing injectors (i did mine) or a fuel reg and a Z32afm (i also did this).

Much of a muchness between the GTRS and the GCG Hiflow.

very happy with my choice.

good luck!

cool thanks again :D Sounds like it wont be to laggy at all :D

I know everyone uses a diff dyno and 10000 factors can change your reading but i thought people were making like 240ish kw @ 14psi with the 2535's ? I thought the GTRS would make slightly more power at the same psi??

^ i pulled 251 on a different dyno (friend of a friend works on commo's a lot in his shop and has one).

And as i said, people are making a reliable 260rwkw on that turbo, different cars, different dyno, different day.

I don't have aftermarket cams, maybe some of those do?

For what it's worth, a friend's ~260rwkw 200SX runs neck and neck with my lowly 230kw. He gets a fatter number on his dyno sheet. I still manage to sleep soundly at night. :D

Now please dont take this the wrong way. I find it hard to beleive a turbo that looks identical to the stock s14 sr20 t28 with simply a 71 compressor wheel could put out in the 250-260rwkw range....its not the 71 compressor I find unbeleivable, but the small 0.64 exhaust housing with 53mm turbine...

I have one in front of me now, and dam it looks so small (the 0.64 housing).

This thread is about dyno sheets and the HKSGTRS, how about some times sheets to go with it..??

BTW, out goes the door for my GT30r and in for the gtrs :P

I'd hazard a guess the two dyno sheets in this thread so far are a lot more closer than the 40rwkw difference it looks at face value.

The 230 sheet was NOT in shootut mode and done in January which is summer so if it was a hot day it would of read higher in shootout mode.

The 270 was in shootout mode but with an inlet temp of 53 so had it not been in shootout it would of read lower.

see now uve complicated the issue :) hehe thanks though.

would i be correct in saying that the gt-rs will give you the highest figure with the right mods ?

like i've seen a few gtrs graphs that are 270-300kw or so... can you get that sorta figure with a 2535 ?

Just as a direct comparison, on the same Racepace dyno:

2535 at 14psi....

see now uve complicated the issue :) hehe thanks though.

would i be correct in saying that the gt-rs will give you the highest figure with the right mods ?

like i've seen a few gtrs graphs that are 270-300kw or so... can you get that sorta figure with a 2535 ?

ive never seen a 2535 with that sort of power but u wont want any more than what i have now... they are a great turbo, and you can pick them up cheap! im more than happy to show you how they go!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see... Any idea how much fab work is required? I note the Hygear megathread but its like 900 pages
    • I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.
    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
×
×
  • Create New...