Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't be f**king stupid mark, you know that 21/22psi is bullshit. Judging by the graph, it's obviously run out of puff, and bumping it up to 20psi is hardly going to 'improve' this.

its out of "puff" cause the injectors are maxed out. not to worry right now though cause it's been set to rev out to 6,500rpm which has made it safer.

obvisously once the new injectors are in, everything will go back to standard.

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That i'm not to sure about. Nick just stated that I can get 20psi out of a standard high flow turbo without busting anything internally or breaking anything at all.

However, to get the 20psi, the injectors would need upgrading which they should be arriving tomorrow or friday.

There will be plans to upgrade the turbo sometime later on into the year towards the end. Just got to get use to the power I have now.

On a straight T3 highflow power will be on the way down after 19-20psi.

It is physically impossible to get more airflow out of them.

And 20psi without busting anything internally is laughable.

If it is an unopened engine,,,,,It will eventually die.

Intersting

usualy when a car starts to lean up like that it makes more power

and if you arnt winding the boost down as it gets leaner i would start to think it's reaching max flow and running outa puff.

unless your retarding the timeing as it gets aroudn 6-7. its a wierd graph for a rb25

also should never run your injectors all the way to 100% :)

`josh

  • 2 weeks later...
Why wouldn't I be?

I ran my RB20 injectors at 110% for nearly 6 months before upgrading them

Ok, Duty Cycle is the % of time the injector stays open (or has power), not the amount of flow, so you're saying that it stays open longer than the amount of time actually available.

I am not even going to go into how stupid that statement is. You can not have more than 100% of time unless you have unravled the mysteries of the cosmos and have a fridge powered by cold fusion.

I'm closing this thread in the name of science and all those bored by your crap.

That goes double for you John for regurgitating it.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...