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I was bored this arvo, so decided to make a system to get some more air into my pod.

Since putting on my front-mount, I have lost the ability to fit the factory snorkel, so wanted to fabricate a kind of 'ram' to tunnel air into my cold air induction box and pod filter.

Went to Bunnings and Stratco, but they don't have fliexble tubing the diameter I wanted. Headed to Clarke Rubber, but they are closed on a Public Holiday. I thought about what I had laying about at home and found a heap of pipe, elbows etc left over from doing our stormwater system. This got me thinking.

See the results below. I love cable-ties - is there nothing they can't do?

Also lined the inside of my CAI box with insulation similar to what is used as hood lining. Think this will help insulate the box somewhat.

Anyone car to share some of their home mods?

n.b added a few slammed pics of my 34 after installing some very low set HKS coilovers (I raised the height afterward of course - was undriveable like that). Enjoy

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Us hardware people refer to that fexipipe as agpipe, and it comes in slotted and unslotted forms.

Another use for the pvc pipe {40, 50,65mm}sizes is it is good to use to make up covers for exposed gauges for dash mounted types. have seen this done in high performance import mag.{early issue}. Black spray paint is great for alot of things. :cool:

does the cai box make much of a diff? i got a new pod filter on sat, cos my old k&n was like black and had some holes in it, even after i cleaned it...and i can feel the dif heaps, so much better response...although i like the idea of feeding air to the pod, cos there isnt much room there and not many holes, most of the space leads towards the hot engine...

yep, I think CAIs make a heap of difference - as long as you actually get cold air to them. I am going to modify my stock snorkel to get air in that way too (which is the best may in my opinion).

I would really like to get a temp sensor in there to check the true variance in inlet temps, but never get around to rigging up a system.

I think when the weather is hot a FMIC is the best and most efficient way to cool inlet temps, but when it is cool, getting fresh very cold air has to help performance markedly.

thx Madaz - was one of the quickest and easiest mods I have done to her yet. It is a bit gay really, flexible conduit would have been heaps better. But I'll see if it is any good.

Next on the drawing board is a sub, amp and splits install, then putting in some chipbard inside the boot lining on one side on which to mount a fire extinguisher in bracket, 5l fuel jerry can, and tool kit - so they are all quickly and easily acessible.

I'll have to grab a few pics of my bodgy cai.

I grabbed 2 x 45degree 100mm dia pvc pipe angles.

Cut a great big dirty 100mm hole under the std air box, cut a hole in the bottom of the airbox, fibreglassed then painted to make it all nice and tidy.

Looking in the engine bay its very difficult to see. But its a defect. :)

I had a PVC, 3inch 90deg elbow on the outlet of my intercooler when the car ran 11.0@125.....(not anymore though)

Also, my 2nd injector rail bosses are not welded into the runners, but glued in with DEVCON. I was curious after seeing that the specs of the epoxy seemed suitable (ie-rated strength, temp tolerance) so I tried it. It hasn't missed a beat!

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Edited by MS-75
unsure bout that mate. ive used mdf in the past and having said that will 'buckle' and flex over time. dont ask me how but it does.

this can happen if u use too thin a MDF trust me anything over 12mm wont buckle

I stole some ag pipe from work to duct air to my filter, used cable ties too. What would we do without them. I've also on accasions blocked my standard BOV to get the flutter noise, But my car stalls wen i do that. Any1 know why it does that?

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