Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i POPPED MY TIRE.

and its so bs.....some c**t left a massive rock (and i mean massive) behind a curve as i was turning (u so could not see dat shit) and bang...my tire pops. tired to put my spare tire on but the thing was bolted down like no tm (proberly with a gun) so i had no chance with the jack and tools to get it off. had to tow it away for 320 bux.

now its sittin at home with half the tire fallen off.

guys wat do i do.....i no i need a new tire but how much does that stuff cost? i dont want some dodgy tire i want the original ones if i can.

own a fully stock R34 17"

i no its just a flat tire but ffs its exspensive

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109549-omg-my-1st-accident/
Share on other sites

no major dmg to the rims just chips....nothing really

starting from 120? well i really want the same type of tires i have on the other 3 wheels or it will look a lil weird. can i get the factory tires somewhere? and how much? 120 sounds like a dodgy tire lol

where do u sugest i get my tires from?

Edited by anjoO

dunno if i'd be keen to replace it with exactly the same thing if it's prone to "pop" the first time you run over something...

now might also be a good time to go all the way around the car and check if the rest of the wheel nuts to see ify ou can budge them to save the same thing happening again.

i POPPED MY TIRE.

and its so bs.....some c**t left a massive rock (and i mean massive) behind a curve as i was turning (u so could not see dat shit) and bang...my tire pops.

dunno if i'd be keen to replace it with exactly the same thing if it's prone to "pop" the first time you run over something...

dude if you hit any Massive rock there is a good chance you will scrwe your tyre it wont matter what you have... also i would be checking you have not cracked you rim...

i no its just a flat tire but ffs its exspensive

one other thing i dont understand why you must have all 4 same tyres ??? it's not going to make you uncool like anyone will even care or be able to see when you are driving past them at 80kms an hour :)

one last thing the tyres on them no would not be "nissan factory items" your would be 7 or 8 years old and would have been replaced a couple of times within this time. probably also at compliance so ring around a few shops and see if they have the same ones you have.

i hope you were trying to undo the nuts whilst the car was still on the ground. you need to loosen the nuts whilst it's on the ground. then jack it up and take them off. otherwise you've got no chance.

i hope you were trying to undo the nuts whilst the car was still on the ground. you need to loosen the nuts whilst it's on the ground. then jack it up and take them off. otherwise you've got no chance.

seem obvious!

but good point! :)

wat urs brand of the tyres on it?

and offset, and i can tell u how much it cost for each!

Lol dude think you a little lost..

Check your tyre (the rubber) sidewall and see which brand it is.. Its not that hard..

Then go a tyre shop and ask them if they sell the same brand..

Thats all to it..

You dont have to take your whole car there..

Take the poped tyre with the rim, and they will do the rest for you..

Then come back home, and fit it on..

Lol dude think you a little lost..

Check your tyre (the rubber) sidewall and see which brand it is.. Its not that hard..

Then go a tyre shop and ask them if they sell the same brand..

Thats all to it..

You dont have to take your whole car there..

Take the poped tyre with the rim, and they will do the rest for you..

Then come back home, and fit it on..

i guess thats the best choice....thanks guys

320 bux for a tow? Ouch, was it from Melbourne to Geelong? lol.

And you should of been able to get those bolts off, even if they are done properly with a gun, assuming the threads on the studs weren't stuffed.

dude if you hit any Massive rock there is a good chance you will scrwe your tyre it wont matter what you have... a

Ya reckon?

I live not too far from a tip, and theres shite all over the roads all the time... I've hit all sorts of things at all types of speeds, ranging from rocks, bricks, lumps of wood, chunks of metal, branches, small animals, fallen road signs, and pot holes big enough that the council could charge entry as a swimming pool if they filled it with water.... from my experiences the wheel itself is more likely to cop damage before the tyre, but I'll just put it down to luck that I haven't had damage to either thus far.

Having the correct tyre pressure may also have something to do with this... not many people seem to care about correct tyre pressures any more.

:)

lol i am really surprised then oh well i guess they are built tough which is good because i have a set of 34 rims on my car... though i am yet to hit anything like what you have listed below :D

Ya reckon?

I live not too far from a tip, and theres shite all over the roads all the time... I've hit all sorts of things at all types of speeds, ranging from rocks, bricks, lumps of wood, chunks of metal, branches, small animals, fallen road signs, and pot holes big enough that the council could charge entry as a swimming pool if they filled it with water.... from my experiences the wheel itself is more likely to cop damage before the tyre, but I'll just put it down to luck that I haven't had damage to either thus far.

Having the correct tyre pressure may also have something to do with this... not many people seem to care about correct tyre pressures any more.

;)

Compared to the cost of owning an R34 the cost of one tyre is negligable.

Take your wheel off and take it to Bob Jane and tell them what you want, I'm sure they could organise it for you. It's a good idea to keep the same tyres on the same axle as each tyre will have different characteristics and grip levels

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...