1988 Y31 Nissan Cima Cedric Vg30det
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Clutch done also about a year ago got a DCS HD Single Plate. Basically done everything but touch the engine 🤣 But will definitely get a fuel pump and ECU, then start saving 🫡 -
Fuel pump and clutch and ecu that’ll get you to about 230 or so kw, after that the sky’s the limit and the budget blows out faster then you can blink -
Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
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Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
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Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
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