Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the time has come to get rid of some stuff thats just in the way

rb26dett tomei camshafts copy's 280 degree 10.8 mm lift in/ex with camshaft gears and springs $1100

rb26dett crandshaft and rods perfect condition $700

r32 gtr front and rear cross drilled discs and calipers $750

r33 gtr intercoler $750

r33 gtr radiator,shroud $250

r32 gtr strut bar $100

r33 gtr front and rear std shocks with lovell lowered springs $600

rb26dett plenum $400

r32 gtr blow off valves $100

r33 gtr centre console cluster $250

z32 air flow meter no plug $300

sr20 os giken twin plate worn $350

vg30 os giken tripple no plates $150

to4b turbo and gate $500

gti-r quad throttle inlet manifold no injectors $600

all prices are negotiable but no dreamers

contact [email protected] or msg/phone on 0414341600

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10966-r3233-z32-gti-r-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...