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Hi guys, first off let me say please don't chew me out about not looking at threads or using the search, as I have but it's very difficult to find the right info, and things do change so outdated threads may or may not help.

Now, my rear tyres are getting rather close to needing a change, and it will be done in the next week more than likely. I am after advice hopefully with people with the same sort of rw output, and what tyres are the best value. So the requirements are 255/40 17, being capable of holding traction with 350rwhp, and capable of good handling in both wet & dry conditions.

Looking through the sticky thread, the 2 that stood out the most for me are the Hankook K104 & Nankang sII's, but obviously there is a big difference from 220 to 350, especially with the cheap-ish nankangs...... Currently & since I had the car I have had Yokohama Advan Neova's, and have been good from near stock to how it is now, but in the wet I thought they were a let down. Since I have had 350 it hasn't been wet, but even when I got it they slipped fairly easily.

The lowest power my car could be tuned to was 347 because of the wastegate spring, and until I can get that changed it's at a bit less than that, as I run 1psi less. With the ecu I will have 2 maps, 1 at about 260rwhp for everyday driving, and probably get the 2nd a bit higher to about 365 for when it's time to have some fun. But this difference & coming up to winter, I want a tyre for all conditions :)

I am off today so I will be calling around a few places for quotes & advice, but advice from SAU is always appreciated because there you're not trying to sell a certain product. :P

Cheers, Nathan

edit, just realised it would be mostly the east coasters reading this, and you prefer kw :P So it's about 265-270rwkw I think.

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Go for the best tyres you can afford.

The better the tyres, the better the traction and the more power you can put down (you knew that already though)

I used to have a set of falken ziex 326's. I moved to toyo proxes T1-R's and have never been happier. They are NOT cheap though.

What is your budget ?

if budget isn't too much of a concern, and wear rates don't matter too much either, try something like the Falken Azenis RT615's (or even the superceded RT215's)

i have used the RT215's, and was impressed with them... very good street tyre... had plenty of grip both wet and dry for me (though power was stock back then)

Tyres are in important & often overlooked part of safety, so I'm not going to be a stingy bastard, considering the power I'm looking at around $400ea, but as I said the best value, and maybe the one that would be best would be $280ea. I've never found myself in this situation, that's all. ;)

In the Michelin range there is a Pilot Preceda which is between the Sport and the Primacy in performance but less expensive than the Sport. This is what I went with on my Silvia - but I am not pushing anywhere near your power.

Toyo T1-R has also been very popular.

Happy tyre shopping :)

There are several important things to know before you go and buy some tyres. Currently you should look at what problems you have

* do the rear tyres wear correctly? (ie no bald/flat spots on either side)

* what suspension setup do you have?

* what km's did you get out the previous set of tyres?

* what tyre pressure are you running on the rears?

I have been through Pzero's, DZ101's and am now on a set of K104's.

Both the Pzero's and DZ101's lasted around 32,000k's ish.

After that they were bald as and provided little or no traction.

They would also wear incorrectly on the inside due to an incorrect suspension setup.

This was with around 180rwkw and it would savagely fry the tyres when they were nearing worn.

My Recommendation would be to speak to a Tyre dealer and outline the current problems you have (or post them on here, ie; answer my questions) and someone should be able to suggest a suitable tyre setup. Also to note Suspension plays a MASSIVE part in getting traction and putting the power down to the road. Running stock suspension with 250rwkw is pointless and will just result in endless wheelspin.

Michy 240mm/640mm-17" S8B(dry) & P2B(wet) full slicks! :(

Its all bitumen right? :(

Apparently they dont bring many s6's or 7's in...its all too soft for aussie tracks :down:

All seriousness, ive got falken 326's and they have been good wet and dry...ive got no complaints...on a 33 gtst.

dude, if you think 326's are good, have you driven on any half-decent tyres? (not trying to have a go at you, just curious)

For road ive normally only used falkens and ive just had a few of the cheap nankangs..also had some others but cant remember names or sorts:(

Ive used some duro 40 retreaded slicks, dunlop uncut wets, bridgestone re55's tt and sr and now some michy s8b slicks are on the way for the next few races.

I personally dont worry about the tyre type that much on the road, cause i dont think there is any need. For the track, yeh definetly thats why we try different tyres to improve times. If i was stupid enough to be racing around on the streets like I do on the track then yeh I might look at semi slicks for the street. I drive abit hard on the streets too somtimes with a few races or just squirts down the street and around the windy parts and they handle the power and pull up well.

My car is a 33 with 360rwhp 255 on rear and 235s on front. Like i said. No complaints. On or off the track. except for the re55 sr...abit hard for my liking.

Thanks for the input everyone, I went with the toyo t1r's at $350 a pop, and just like someone said in the sticky thread, you can really feel the hicas more, be getting rid of that soon I think. On the sauwa cruise today I shifted the steering wheel back & forth a bit, and didn't like the fact the car was basically correcting itself, and it made me feel I had less control of my car.

Paul to answer your questions the tyres did wear evenly except for the very outside of the tyres, I have Kei Office coilovers btw. The tyres that were on it (yokohama neovas) came with the car from Japan so they were on, they were in pretty decent condition since I got it (May last year), it had 77,000km done & when I got them changed I had about 93,000 so about 16,000k's or so I got out of them. I *could* have got more but when the power is too much for them to hold traction it's better to let them go obviously.

Thanks again everyone!

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