Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

I have just had my motor replaced and have had some vacum leaks fixed and an exhaust manifold leak fixed. Before they were fixed car wasnt boosting up. Car is boosting up now but seems to be hesitating a bit. Doesnt seem to be comming on boost as hard.

I have added a front mount and i was told to expect more turbo lag, but the car feels substantially slower. I notice it quite a lot in 3rd gear, Second doesnt seem to bad. Idle goes up or down a bit every now and then too. I have noticed when the idle does this, I can hear a clicking near the front or intake side of the head just as the idle changes?

Any Ideas anyone?

And also what does everone sugest i do to treat my newly formed car? Good oil? etc

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109663-rb25det-acting-strange-help/
Share on other sites

I have just had my motor replaced

I have added a front mount

ummmm - has it been tuned as yet with the fmic on??? my rb25det was very hesitant when I put on the fmic, now after a tune is very strong.

The car has the following mods,

K&N pod filter

Hybrid Front Mount

3 inch cat back exhaust

Daikon/exedy brass button clutch

kyb struts and springs

I havnt had the car tuned after I have put motor in and the front mount so maybye that is the problem. I am confident it is not the usual coil, or spark plug issue as they are new and coils have been checked 2 weeks ago.

Noticed idle fluctuating between 800 and 100 rpm everynow and then again today. Almost sounded like it had lumpy cams.

James,

The engine is out of a series two 97 model, i didnt rebuild old motor as block was screwed.

I dont have a aftermarket boost guage. I also have performed that high boost mod mod that is stated on this site, possibly a dumb move befor car was tuned.

Sounds dumb and you've prob checked it anyway but it made my 33 idle fluctuate as you've described...

Right at the front of the fuel rail (cyl #1 end of motor) is the fuel pressure reg which has a little vac hose attached to it....this hose may have a leak or has come off....

Yeah ill try the ecu reset tmrw thanks for that. Yeah ill try injector clean too. Guy thinks that there may have been bigger injectors in the half cut i bought. May be something to look at, maybye they need better reg or pump?

it sounds like you are hitting the factory excess airflow protecition. this is usually the result of an incorrectly plumbed in actuator line. check there is a pressure line from the intercooler piping running to the turbocharger actuator (copper bubble with a nipple on it).

if its missing your are running unlimited boost and the ecu is protecting itself. what does the factory boost guage show? does it goto +7 ?

On that note of ECU's and motor swaps...

The series 2 motor doesn't run the ignitor on the top of it, it's run from the ECU. How did your mechanic get around this? Swap ECU's, or do something funky with another ignitor?

oh you have a series 1 ecu running a series 2 engine?

i once tried a remapped ecu and it was from a series 1 rb25

i experienced the same sorta things you mentioned, really flat gear feelings despite the car running fine.

please confirm what ecu you have and what engine (series 1 or 2)

if you have series 1 ecu on series 2 engine i would recommend buying a series 2 ecu

well if it in fact is a series 1 ecu on a series 2 rb25 engine (which seems to be the case without confirmation) then an safc will help a little but i suspect the problem will still be present or get worse. you would be better off getting a correct series 2 ecu.

the powerfc will fix it as the powerfc is the same wether its the series 1 or series 2 rb25, its the same ecu.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...