Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya all,

Same old problem. Drive around, then put it in neutral. Car drops to around 500rpm, then stalls.

I cleaned the AAC like nobody's business, and still no luck. I'm running an aftermarket BOV, but am

plumbing it back.

Visually inspected the AFM and it seems fine. Is there any way to tell if it is the cause of the problem?

If I can't fix it myself, I'll have to fork out big dollars to get everything inspected one step at a time.

I've heard rumours of an idle speed control solenoid, air regulator or throttle position sensor, but the details

on them were sketchy at best.

Please help me out,

Thanks,

Adrian.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109749-yet-another-stalling-problem/
Share on other sites

Just found out that with the A/C on, it wont stall. So I'm writing it off to an rpm setting issue, and will turn up the revs on the old girl, see if that sorts it out.

Will post the results on here either way.

Thanks,

Adrian.

As an update, I cleaned the AAC, it's sparkling inside now. Put it all back

together without a drama, and it still stalls.

Other causes I've read about are as follows:

AFM dirty or oily

Fuel Pump earth wire

Fuel Filter clogged

Throttle Position Sensor needs adjusting

Crank Angle Sensor needs adjusting

I'm going to attack my AFM with carby cleaner tonight and see if that makes any difference. If it STILL stalls, I'll look into disconnecting the AAC plug, and check if that stabilized idle. If it does, I might not bother re-connecting it.

I'm also planning on changing fuel filter, and fitting iridium spark plugs.

Will eventually find the gremlin, then I'll let you all know :O

As an update, I cleaned the AAC, it's sparkling inside now. Put it all back

together without a drama, and it still stalls.

Other causes I've read about are as follows:

AFM dirty or oily

Fuel Pump earth wire

Fuel Filter clogged

Throttle Position Sensor needs adjusting

Crank Angle Sensor needs adjusting

I'm going to attack my AFM with carby cleaner tonight and see if that makes any difference. If it STILL stalls, I'll look into disconnecting the AAC plug, and check if that stabilized idle. If it does, I might not bother re-connecting it.

I'm also planning on changing fuel filter, and fitting iridium spark plugs.

Will eventually find the gremlin, then I'll let you all know :thumbsup:

Did you adjust the idle speed using the screw in the base of the AAC (driver's side)?

Clogged fuel filter usually has the opposite effect - idles fine, won't accelerate.

Just took my car for a spin and had a thought:

I noticed that when the boost gauge reads -0.6 on idle, the revs are around 650-700rpm. However, after driving then clutching in, the boost gauge drops to around -0.8, then slowly comes back up to -0.6.

My question is - is this cause or effect?

Is the low boost gauge reading causing rpm fluctuation, or is rpm fluctuation causing varying boost level readings? Or are both of these effects of the same cause?

Thanks pal. I took the AAC off the car and cleaned the sh*t out of it

with carby cleaner, got it looking real schmick. Then I put it back on and

hey presto - no difference... :D

I heard that disconnecting it can correct the problem, but then it runs a

certain rpm idle no matter if A/C is on or off. I would rather fix the

problem properly, if I can.

Thanks a bunch for your help.

Okie dokie

I didn't mean take the AAC off (as that would obviously leave a giant gaping hole out the side of my inlet manifold).

What I meant was disconnecting the plug that goes to the AAC.

Edited by Johnny Cash

ok, here is procedure to check your AAC valve properly. you'll need a multimeter.

my guess is either voltage between pin 1 and ground will be wrong, or the resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 are wrong, if everything is fine start looking at other things.

(sorry about the large images...)

aac1.jpg

aac2.jpg

aac3.jpg

aac4.jpg

aac5.jpg

aac6.jpg

hope this helps :D

Well it certainly looks like a lot of words and fancy pictures. Pity I know nothing about this sort of stuff. If I can't fix it with a screwdriver and a hammer, then it's beyond me.

Multimeter? I wish!

i dunno if this will help but, since uve mentioned that ur running with an aftermarket bov, have u tried putting a different bov? or installing ur stock one back? coz some ppl had this problem and usually the bov had been leaking or something like that, hope to be in help

Nah it all works a treat now. I just cleaned the AAC and AFM.

I used carby cleaner for the AAC, and electrical contact cleaner for the AFM.

Purrs like a kitten, thank god. Let's just hope it stays that way.

Thanks for all your help, guys.

She almost stalled on me this morning, but she was cold, and I was running my BOV atmo, so they could be causing it. I'll tighten the sh*t out of the BOV when I go home for lunch, and see if that makes a difference.

If it only happens when its cold, I'll let it go. It's when it's warm that it concerns me. It's hard to get going in the morning, like its owner :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
×
×
  • Create New...