Spitfire Coilpacks Rb25

[Bl4cK32]

i dont agree with the bodge up method used in the maintenance thread for a couple of reasons. The first being that they are using araldite to re insulate the coilpacks.

For starters araldite loses its hardness (ie goes soft) at anything above 60 degrees c. I find it hard to believe the head doesnt get httoer than 60c.

Personally ive tried to locate someone who can rewind and re-insualte the std coil packs. Its very common for road bikes to have the coils / electrics rewound etc, so why is it so damn hard to find someone to do it for my car??

Im gunna have to pull apart the coils myself and rewind/reinsualte them myself. Failing that -then i will be going splitfires.

Call me old fashioned, but i believe in the older style of fix it before replace it (time to fix versus 5 mins to replace)

Edited March 17, 2006 by Bl4cK32

[Ant97GTR]

Hey Ash....theres an easier way to find out which ones farked without swapping coils, assuming that it misses on idie...

pop the boonet and pull the plug off each coil until you pull one off that doesn't change the engine firing...hence thats the one thats farked.

[copycutter]

hey while were talking misfire does anyone know the part number for a copper NGK plug for an rb25 with a heat range of 7 and 0.8mm gap please?

[R31Nismoid]

Hey Ash....theres an easier way to find out which ones farked without swapping coils, assuming that it misses on idie...

pop the boonet and pull the plug off each coil until you pull one off that doesn't change the engine firing...hence thats the one thats farked.

indeed

ive used that before on the idle

i was referring too... ummm... whoever it was that had the high RPM miss

[JimX]

For starters araldite loses its hardness (ie goes soft) at anything above 60 degrees c. I find it hard to believe the head doesnt get httoer than 60c.

There's a type of Araldyte which is more resistant to higher temperatures, and designed for use in hot areas like an engine bay. I forget what it's called exactly but I did buy some when trying to fix my coilpacks and the rest of it is in my cupboard at home somewhere. It didn't help at all so I bought Splitfires, but the epoxy did hold up pretty well when the engine was warm. Obviously since it didn't work for me it's not a guaranteed fix, but I think it's still worth a shot since it only cost $12 or something from a hardware store.

[Bl4cK32]

if i was going to try that method JimX, id try to find some better epoxies like the one you found.

I know for sure there are a lot better things to use than hardware araldite....

[Craved]

hey while were talking misfire does anyone know the part number for a copper NGK plug for an rb25 with a heat range of 7 and 0.8mm gap please?

the park number your after is in here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=104405&hl=

but its BCPR7ES.

hey Ash, thats good news about the coils holding that power range.. might as well install them now cheers!

[copycutter]

Yeah thanks Craved... I went to super cheap auto and autobarn but neither had the right plug for me... apparently they are rarer than i though, and the rb25det stock plug in the NGK booklet is FV___11 so i was like wtf?

Anyway, I aked them to order the part from some supplier in Brisbane, and they'll be here on Monday, so I can get rid of the bcpr5es11 plugs i got in there now that have done like 800km..

[R31Nismoid]

hey Ash, thats good news about the coils holding that power range.. might as well install them now cheers!

That was the limit though on the 100% factory ignition...

It would mis-fire with anymore boost.

However, if you buy an ignition amplifier to get more juice to the coils you can use them for even more i would imagine... i did plan to do that and get 30psi into it for shits and giggles, but $$$$ got the better of me

[Craved]

That was the limit though on the 100% factory ignition...

It would mis-fire with anymore boost.

However, if you buy an ignition amplifier to get more juice to the coils you can use them for even more i would imagine... i did plan to do that and get 30psi into it for shits and giggles, but $$$$ got the better of me

prob run max of about 23 psi in the RB30 im guessing so if thats all you were pushing then it all seems ok..

the ignition amplifier : is that like the HKS twin power units?? for that sort of price might be almost the same as running an MSD setup.. wouldn't be too much more when you add the HKS unit to the splitfires..

[CruiseLiner]

msd coils as tommyk mentioned are $95 each so just under $600 (when i got em 8 months ago, and that was not a cheap price), only thing is u need a cdi unit to run them im 99% sure. fitting em is easy, though im struggling to get the cover on with em in as the last coil hits where the ignitor pack sits as it drops down abit so im gonna chop the ignitor hole out and put some mesh in it for cooling and to be able to put the top back on to hide the wiring and make it look neater

[Craved]

MSD ignitor packs are about $950 plus the coils and lead $700

=approx $1600

where as the twin power is $600 plus $600 for splitfires

extra $400 for more efficient spark production and no need for an upgrade later ..

options options options...

or have i got this wrong?

[CruiseLiner]

MSD ignitor packs are about $950 plus the coils and lead $700

=approx $1600

where as the twin power is $600 plus $600 for splitfires

extra $400 for more efficient spark production and no need for an upgrade later ..

options options options...

or have i got this wrong?

leads are not needed if u mount direct onto sparkplugs, i removed my ignitor all together with the autronics cdi so i dont know if u would need an msd one or not with the twin power.

autronics cdi = $1150

msd coils = $600

thats all i got (untested so far, so not sure they are good yet)

ill keep yas posted

[Craved]

yeah by MSD igniter i meant the CDI unit ..

i'll have a chat to Dave (T04GTR) who is running the MSD on his GTR.. see if i can get any more info from him

look forward to hearing how you go though.

[no_name]

ive been running the spitfires for years. the car NEVER misfires now. i strugled with a persistant misfire and changed everything up_circuit from the sparkplugs. tried iridiums and platinums and copper without much luck. now i run the spitfires with a standard plug gap upto 1.2 bar without hiccup.

i think most targa cars run spitfires now too. they just seem to work better.

-- the whole story --

way back when i first got my skyline circa 2000 i decided that there was power to be had. bought an rsr front pipe and 3" cat and got lucky with justjap having a nice 3" catback. everything had nice big 3" flanges too. and i think i must have gotten one of the first AVO frontmounts. this setup ran quite nicely. i changed the stock filter for a k&n and as usual this results in a little bit more boost. the midrange was wonderful. as soon as it went through 400rpm it just died - sounded like it only had one sparkplug. just that tiny 2psi more just killed it.

firstly i tried denso iridium plugs. these did definitely help a bit - but it didnt entirely cure the problem. and i wasnt going to actually turn down the boost cause the midrange was like entering into a tractor pull everytime. at this stage the AFR was still under 11:1 so i decided the tune could be to blame as i was on the stock computer. ( with the denso plugs we found that reducing the gap wasnt a major contributor to clearing up the misfire - a small improvement from 1.1 down to 0.8 ) IMHO the iridium plugs do burn better than others.

in the series one engines there is another piece of the ignition circuit on the tappet cover which can also be problematic. if you can lay your hands on a spare then try swapping this out. in my case it didnt help.

in retrospect i should have cleaned the coilpacks properly at this stage. clean the plugs thoroughly - no fancy silicon fluids and whatnot. get them to work properly first and then seal them up with that. dry kitchen towel is good to clean the rubber boots - though should be food quality clean - and get the dry and clean. a little solvent to hep get the grime off them helps( i think i used a drop of wd40 to help loosen the crud ). if you have clean connections to the packs and everything is clean and it still misfires then u more than likely have a marginal coilpack in there. i tried to check them with a multimeter to see if there was one which was different in any way but mine were all identical.

i was hanging out at justjap one afternoon when a shipment came in - and in the scrum for the good new parts i came out with a set of spitfires. its a long time ago but i think i was still on the stock computer. amazing - as i was used to the car coughing and farting and all of sudden it ran clear all the way to the redline.

soon after i got my powerfc. ( silly me - i paid extra for the claimed "localised" version - 6 months of testing in local conditions my arse )

also got lucky on the yahoo auctions in japan and got a boost control kit.

justjap are involved in the preparation of qutie a few skylines for the targa tasmania. they seem to prefer using spitfires in the racecars.

in another justjap wrestling match i got an hks2530. so i was comfortable to run over 12psi without fetching the exhaust wheel out of the cat.

with this i ran over 1.2bar on the dyno at c&v without misfire problems. ran out of injectors though as i hit 100% duty cycle at 5000rpm :

basicly after the spitfires went in ive become indifferent to the plugs because they were never a factor anymore. no matter what further mods went in - the spark was always there. boost and mixture could not put the flame out.

Edited March 19, 2006 by no_name

[ross80]

Lomg question short,

I know I could probably use the 'search button" but I cant be bothered to be honest because it usally gives you a shitload of unrelated pages!

I HAVE A RB25DET IN MY R33. WHAT PLUGS AND WHAT GUAGE IS BEST?

[ross80]

It is dropping off at 5000 rpm. I have a feeling it is either a spark or fuel issue. ill try spark first. Then ill replace fuel pump with a bigger walbro one and clean injectors otherwise. help

[Craved]

Lomg question short,

I know I could probably use the 'search button" but I cant be bothered to be honest because it usally gives you a shitload of unrelated pages!

I HAVE A RB25DET IN MY R33. WHAT PLUGS AND WHAT GUAGE IS BEST?

um from my post above

the park number your after is in here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=104405&hl=

but its BCPR7ES.

you would probably only need the BCPR6E for up to 14psi with a 0.8 gap

[copycutter]

so if only running like 10psi the bcpr7's at 0.8mm wont hurt tho right?

[no_name]

It is dropping off at 5000 rpm. I have a feeling it is either a spark or fuel issue. ill try spark first. Then ill replace fuel pump with a bigger walbro one and clean injectors otherwise. help

it would be worth spending $100 and doing a few dyno runs to see whats going on. dont bother running all the way to the redline until youve got it sorted. ive seen several rb26's killed on the dyno by doing repeated redline runs with lean mixtures. a quick run to 5000rpm will tell you everything you need to know. as soon as anything looks or sounds unusual abort the run.

check the AFR and make sure its reasonable. IMHO its between 11 and 12 to 1 under boosted load.

also - every now and then one of the crank angle sensors will get jittery so have them run a timing light to make sure your timing is stable and correctly set.

a good workshop will have a fuel pressure guage aswell. check the rail pressure during the run to make sure the pump is keeping up. also make sure the correct pressure is there at idle otherwise there is no point as your whole fuel map will be offset once it come out of closed loop.

only then once you have established that do you really know whats going on.

Edited March 19, 2006 by no_name