Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dayne is right - the price they have is just an indicator. My r33, was there for 22,000 - i got it for 16,500 + orc - so came to about 17,500. If its got problems, make sure u know a good mechanic, get the car for cheap and fix it yourself.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah i guess i liked that car... and i alrerady spend 275 on checking it... and yes i should be the one bargaining it down. It was for sale for 15,990 +on road costs. i asked him to give it to me for 16,900 drive away. plus he offered free car alarm and immoboliser. so theoretically i bargained it down about 500 bucks...

Anyway if its fixed by next week cool, if not im out.

Dude, its not worth the money, even if you did bargain it down $500. but if you wanna waste money then thats your choice. Just a tip, used car yards only ever fix cars on the cheap, their aim is to get the biggest profit they can, just remember that in six months time when the engine blows because the oil leak came back cause he put a can of stop leak in it.

Dude, its not worth the money, even if you did bargain it down $500. but if you wanna waste money then thats your choice. Just a tip, used car yards only ever fix cars on the cheap, their aim is to get the biggest profit they can, just remember that in six months time when the engine blows because the oil leak came back cause he put a can of stop leak in it.

:) ok guess who is paranoid now? :P

Mate, your getting RIPPED. As i said before. Walk away right now.

Again with nath95... anyone can put a can of 'stop leak' in their car, or 'anti smoke' or 'lifter quieter' it'll fix it for the first few tanks of fuel.. then your gone!

The cars dodgy now, whats that say about its life? Quick story about my old skyline... had a noisy box, so i rebuilt it

then the clutch went... so i replaced it... was told it had hot spots on it (signs of abuse)

then the diff went... my guess is it was used for wayyy to many burnouts.

Dayne

Thanks for the heads up Sir-D. Some car dealers in that area in Victoria are really dodgy. I myself had bad experiences before i went into importing the cars straight from Japan.

What's more, i can get you one of those car for much less than that landed and complied with none of those problems :P

Edited by BL01
Mate, your getting RIPPED. As i said before. Walk away right now.

Again with nath95... anyone can put a can of 'stop leak' in their car, or 'anti smoke' or 'lifter quieter' it'll fix it for the first few tanks of fuel.. then your gone!

The cars dodgy now, whats that say about its life? Quick story about my old skyline... had a noisy box, so i rebuilt it

then the clutch went... so i replaced it... was told it had hot spots on it (signs of abuse)

then the diff went... my guess is it was used for wayyy to many burnouts.

Dayne

Well seeing as RACV has checked it twice before I trust them to tell me if the engine leaks have been fixed with the new valve gasket or just a can of "stop leak"... thanks guy for the info. Im not gonan buy it until i am 100% sure its rectified.

Don't buy it! It would sting your wallet in coming months! Even if they has fixed the 'problem' you found with the car.

As others has said there's others, take your time to find good or brilliant examples as these examples will save your money.

Take others advice, you find something is not right, walk away.

Cheers

Grant

Doesn't sound worth it for the money...

I bought my Black, 2 door, series 2, manual, R33 GTST about 8 months ago for $16K.

Clutch was dead, and battery was dead. Battery is $100, and the clutch turned out to be an incorrect carrier in the gearbox, which toasted my new $350 clutch.

All in all, i'll have spent $1000 ontop to get it perfect... the paint is immaculate, the trim is immaculate...etc...

So if you have an R32 at the same money, you'd want it to be 100% before you buy it, and it doesn't sound like this guy will tell you of any problems that the RACV doesn't pick up on.

Shop around, get a nicer R32 or an R33... resale value on 32's are going to dip really hard as more R34's come out and s2 R33's come down.

Well seeing as RACV has checked it twice before I trust them to tell me if the engine leaks have been fixed with the new valve gasket or just a can of "stop leak"... thanks guy for the info. Im not gonan buy it until i am 100% sure its rectified.

you can trust them to tell you when symptoms exists - as they have. you already know theres a PROBLEM due to there being symptoms in the past - now just cause the symptoms have gone (thats all RACV check cares about) in the short term, it by no means ensures that the underlying cause is fixed (which often can be a complete rebuild).

why, after its already been confirmed there could be a serious underlying problem, are you convinced that problem is now gone just cause its symptoms have temporarily disappeared.

most auto skylines sell for 12-14k these days - what makes this any better? the fact you want an auto skyline gives you a HUGE advantage in buying - most people dont want one. now your going to waste this advantage by buying one for 16k or whatever? just take a bit more time to think it through - everyone is saying as such because theyve either been in the same situation or know someone who has, and know how tempting it can be just to ignore all the sus stuff in order to just get that car right now.

Edited by NewKleer
you can trust them to tell you when symptoms exists - as they have. you already know theres a PROBLEM due to there being symptoms in the past - now just cause the symptoms have gone (thats all RACV check cares about) in the short term, it by no means ensures that the underlying cause is fixed (which often can be a complete rebuild).

why, after its already been confirmed there could be a serious underlying problem, are you convinced that problem is now gone just cause its symptoms have temporarily disappeared.

most auto skylines sell for 12-14k these days - what makes this any better? the fact you want an auto skyline gives you a HUGE advantage in buying - most people dont want one. now your going to waste this advantage by buying one for 16k or whatever? just take a bit more time to think it through - everyone is saying as such because theyve either been in the same situation or know someone who has, and know how tempting it can be just to ignore all the sus stuff in order to just get that car right now.

yeah fair call dude.

oh well im gonna wait and see some more cars next week and see how the dodgy car yard turns out :P

good to see soe many bros helping out! thanks guys!

RACV knows what about skylines again?

I must of missed it but what was the compression and leak down test results of the ENGINE again?

The a/f ratio was what on the dyno?

Forget RACV, get it checked out by someone who actually knows skylines.

Edited by FATGTS-R

ya i wouldnt worry about racv either.. i ran out of petrol once and the guy told me to go buy new injectors cause the old ones must be stuffed..

anyways like everyone else has said, theres heaps of skylines that dont have problems, buy one of them :(

btw have you taken that sticker off the rear bar? it looks suss seeing theres no stickers on rest of the body.

i think there might be a hole there of some sort he wants to hide.

for the $17k hes asking for the car, its pretty expensive seeing the car looks dead stock. i would personally talk the price down to $14 - $15k

i purchased mine from aussie car compliance, it costed bit over $15k but came with 17inch deepdish work rims with 3inch exhaust of turbo, hks pod filter, front strut brace, tein coilovers all over, blitz gauges with apillar mount, cars mileage 70k km's. no leaks anywhere on the car, had it over 3 months now, car runs perfectly and feels like the km's its done are geniune

i would really re-consider getting this car

my car:

IM0001.jpg

btw have you taken that sticker off the rear bar? it looks suss seeing theres no stickers on rest of the body.

i think there might be a hole there of some sort he wants to hide.

for the $17k hes asking for the car, its pretty expensive seeing the car looks dead stock. i would personally talk the price down to $14 - $15k

i purchased mine from aussie car compliance, it costed bit over $15k but came with 17inch deepdish work rims with 3inch exhaust of turbo, hks pod filter, front strut brace, tein coilovers all over, blitz gauges with apillar mount, cars mileage 70k km's. no leaks anywhere on the car, had it over 3 months now, car runs perfectly and feels like the km's its done are geniune

i would really re-consider getting this car

my car:

IM0001.jpg

Yeah Ive spoken to Joel before, seemed like a cool guy, he has a skyline I like...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...