Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Max Power about your XR6t I unfortunately work at Adrian Brien Ford, I have seen this happen alot. We had a staff member whos bought a turbo for her husband, it had some clutch problems they wouldn't do it under warranty - this caused a lot of problems around the place as the are so F***ing lazy when it comes to warranty work.(sorry you can probibly tell that I absolutely hate my job and work but this is the truth about warranty work in dealerships they make more money out of the customer than they do Ford)

I hope my warranty works as i had to come home from the cruise early as my clutch is playing up!

Edited by Whiplash
I hate to say it whiplash but the clutch want come under warranty because it is classed as wear and tear I think. I had to replace mine myself $4500 later. :D

wot u put in it a OS geinkin (spelling :S)

and did u do the work your self

i just got Kent brake and clutch to do mine and cost 800or 900 i cant remeber of the top of my head i think 900 for the GTS-4 with a HD xtreme clutch

BOUGHT MY CAR FROM rEDLINE AND I CANT SAY I HAVE HAD ANY PRBS WITH IT.... u DO PAY A LITTLE EXTRA FROM THEM BUT AT ELAST YOU KNOW YOUR GETTING A HALF DECENT CAR (MINE HAD THE AUCTION PAPERS AND STUFF COME ALONG WITH IT.... hAVNT HAD ANY PROBS AT ALL AND WHEN I GOT RAA CHECK THEY FIXED THE STUFF THAT WAS WRONG APART FROM MY REAR SPOILER LIGHT BECAUSE Icbf.

i went into redline a few weeks ago, looking around for my first skyline...however, i've been lurking round for a while checking out prices, and yeah they did seem a little expensive, 2-3k more than other places.

also, you'll be kinda hard pressed to find a GT-R there. the only one i saw was an R32. a lot of 32 and 33 GTS-T's, and most of these were pretty clean.

they're pretty good if you want a supra or 180sx as well, and one thing that i did notice that the brakes on a lot of the cars were very rusty, so that's something you probably should take into consideration when you look to buy...brakes aren't cheap.

and one thing that i did notice that the brakes on a lot of the cars were very rusty, so that's something you probably should take into consideration when you look to buy...brakes aren't cheap.

new brake pads allways go rusty when i got new pads in my car i would get up and over night there was a rust like residue over my rotors

i dont think that is too much to worry about

A good option is interstate purchases, with RTA inspections and such .. They pick up pretty much everything and more in the way of faults. I saved myself quite a few thousand just by going interstate and driving it back (after taping up the front to prevent stone chips). I could've got it transported but how better to check a car for driving faults than driving it back from Sydney?

I went through http://www.japimports.com.au/ and found Brad Host to be a good, honest dealer. Couldnt be happier with my purchase, he even drove it to the airport for me to pick it up :happy:

They sell aftermarket warranties too for a reasonable price, not that I have had a need but I have called the firm querying. They cover almost everything, clutch, diffs, even exhaust :P

Maybe not relavent to the topic, but a possible other option :(

A good option is interstate purchases, with RTA inspections and such .. They pick up pretty much everything and more in the way of faults. I saved myself quite a few thousand just by going interstate and driving it back (after taping up the front to prevent stone chips). I could've got it transported but how better to check a car for driving faults than driving it back from Sydney?

Interesting option, but do different states have different rules regarding compliance and what is and isn't legal?

For example, if I bought a car that was complied in VIC could it be possible that it is infact illegal in SA due to different laws? I am new to all these rules and regulations so please correct me if I am wrong..

Cheers for the link though!

^^^ yes that is spot on the money my opinion if u dont want to go over the pits @ regency is buy local

but it is a very good option too if u dont mind a visit to regency least it doesnt need full compliance i believe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...