Jump to content
SAU Community

Attn: Series 2 Owners

No Crust Racing
 Share

Recommended Posts

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Need someone to do me a quick favour. I've noticed that one of my front wheels is off centre relative to the wheel arch (wheen looking directly at the rim). I did some measurments, middle of back wheel to middle of front wheel and got a 10mm discrepency. Found it to be the alignment of the K-Frame (well it's called that on a commodore - has your sway bar and front stabilizer bar connected to it). Fixing it is not a drama at all but I need some measurements from you guys. Can you please measure the distance between the middle of your back rim to the middle of your front rim and post it or PM me please so I know if I need to adjust one side or both. The car still drives and handles fine but now that I've noticed it, I see it very easily and plus it puts excess strain on the sway bar bush o that side.

Thanks heaps in advance Dezz and Randy :turned:

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109935-attn-series-2-owners/
Share on other sites
r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Your not referring to the offset castor on the driverside wheel to allow for australias tapered roads. If thats it...then thats normal if a suspension place has changed the castor bushes or done some sort of alignment on your car...maybe a previous owner? Stops the car from pulling to your left normally.

Thats how i interpreted it. Or have i completely missed what youve said?

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've done a very quick and crude photoshop ob to show what I'm talking about using a pic of my car before it got its wheels. Although this is the same side in both pics, imagine that the 'normal' side, the first photo is the passenger side and the second photo represents the driver side. As I mentioned, the entire K-Frame requires an adjustment. I just need measurements from rim centre to rim centre from a straight series II.

Disregard the height difference, that's just me and 1:20am and St Patricks Day =D

Passenger Side

post-23873-1142605197.jpg

Driver Side

post-23873-1142605225.jpg

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
make sure the person who you get this measurement off doesn't have aftermarket castor rods or bushes!......

just exactly what i was going to say...i've got about 20mm from the front gaurd to my tyre with my castor rods (8deg castor)

KamikazeR33 Grand Master

KamikazeR33

Posted
Posted

dan id be getting under the front to c which arm or rod is bent

this was the same with mine n yet im still to replace it. it will still drive fine due to it being aligned with it being in that position

mine is the radius rod thats bent. $80 from jappo donks to replace

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey man was wondering when you'd poke your head in =D I've checked all the rods and bars, had it up on stands and the wheel off. The K-Frame needs to come forward 10mm, everything else looks and measures right. I just need some reliable measurements.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Hey guys,

Need someone to do me a quick favour. I've noticed that one of my front wheels is off centre relative to the wheel arch (wheen looking directly at the rim). I did some measurments, middle of back wheel to middle of front wheel and got a 10mm discrepency. Found it to be the alignment of the K-Frame (well it's called that on a commodore - has your sway bar and front stabilizer bar connected to it). Fixing it is not a drama at all but I need some measurements from you guys. Can you please measure the distance between the middle of your back rim to the middle of your front rim and post it or PM me please so I know if I need to adjust one side or both. The car still drives and handles fine but now that I've noticed it, I see it very easily and plus it puts excess strain on the sway bar bush o that side.

Thanks heaps in advance Dezz and Randy :banana:

Cheers

What's the caster readings?

:P cheers :P

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

SK: nfi, tell me how to measure them and I'll tell you what they are. As I stated in my blurb, the k-frame appears mis-aligned and that a simple adjustment there will put everything back to where it should be. Unless adjusting castor is going to move the k-krame as well which I can't see how that would occur (but I'm no expert). I can see from the pressure on the sway bar bush that the k-frame needs to come forward and everything would be then be where it should be.

Cheers

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted (edited)
SK: nfi, tell me how to measure them and I'll tell you what they are. As I stated in my blurb, the k-frame appears mis-aligned and that a simple adjustment there will put everything back to where it should be. Unless adjusting castor is going to move the k-krame as well which I can't see how that would occur (but I'm no expert). I can see from the pressure on the sway bar bush that the k-frame needs to come forward and everything would be then be where it should be.

Cheers

Caster is best measured on a wheel aligner, as it is a differential measurement. Simply put, the amount of camber when the wheel is turned one way compared to the amount of camber when the wheel is turned the other way (20 degrees is the standard). If you move one side of the front subframe forward you will increase the caster on that side. This will give uneven caster when compared to the other side, the car will pull to one side as a result (the side with the least caster).

Currently you have said the car tracks OK, so that must mean the caster is somewhere near similar, side to side. Move one side of the subframe and that won't be the case. Also moving the front subframe will change the toe settings, moving towards toe out.

My suggestion would be to get the wheel alignment checked before you touch anything, all 4 wheels, camber, caster and toe.

:happy: cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid
No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Great, thanks =D

I got 2720mm on the right side and 2710mm on the left so I'll go with 2720 being correct.

SydneyKid: is adjusting castor on the left going to affect this measurement? I might go get all the measurements for an alignment done but have them call me first.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Great, thanks =D

I got 2720mm on the right side and 2710mm on the left so I'll go with 2720 being correct.

SydneyKid: is adjusting castor on the left going to affect this measurement? I might go get all the measurements for an alignment done but have them call me first.

The LHS being short is quite common, it's the side that hits the gutters and the edge of the road surface the most. If you adjust the caster using offset bushes in the radius rods, or by shortening the radius rods, then you will change the wheelbase.

As I posted previously check the caster before you do anything.

:) cheers :(

  • 3 weeks later...
RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Sorry I didn't see this earlier, Dan!

I can measure up for you if you still want confirmation, but I found today that my castor bushes are completely stuffed, and will need replacing.

I'm going to head up a new post asking for the part numbers, cause searching doesn't give me any joy.

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's all good, I took some detailed measurements and have since fixed the issue. The measurements did NOT add up so the only way to fix the issue was to die grind new holes for the stabilizer bar, which required us to weld on new metal washer and tidy it all up. I've attached a pic showing the end result (just took the pic, the repair a few days old now). I know this sounds very dodgy BUT I had a suspension/alignment specialist on hand to assist and he agreed that this was the best fix without putting the car on a rack and risking bending other components.

For the record the measurements are now PERFECT each side at 2730mm wheel centre to wheel centre. I'll be getting a full balance and alignment after easter as we're putting in my shocks and springs (Bilstiens with King Super Low's for that phat look :))

Just to clarify, we die grinded the original holes back towards the front of the car then welded new metal washers in place (we also sprayed the welds with WD-40 which makes them high tensile apparently). We then touched it up with some primer and a quick hit of black.

post-23873-1144571826.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...