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RB26 R33 GTR

N1 CAMS

N1 BLOCK

N1 HEAD

N1 OIL PUMP

ARC FRONT MOUNT 100mm thick

ARC CATCH CAN

ARC 16 layered oil cooler kit+remote oil filter

HKS 2835's TWIN BB TURBOS (low mounts to look stock)

HKS PODs

OS Giken syncros

OS Giken Twin Plate clutch

Tein coil over suspension

Dba slotted rotors

Green stuff pads

SSR lightweight rims

Rims -18X10 Rubber – 245 x 45 x 18 dunlop sp9000 (brand new)

Defi gauges

6 point roll cage

Nizmo speedo

AVC-R BOOST CONTROLER

550cc injectors

Im sure i have left a heap of stuff out too.

*insert remembered some more*

Spitfire coils

Exhaust – CES Down pipes + twin Stainless steal 2 ¾”

nismo fuel reg

HID headlight (like BMWs etc)

ARC radiator

Clifford Alarm /remote start etc

GPS tracker

Tinted windows etc

HKS TURBO TIMER

bla bla bla list could go on and on i guess so ill just leave it at that.

makes 520hp@rw on 1.6bar boost something like 400kw@w

Gaven Wood @ Gaven Wood auto tech looks after all mechinacal work and street tune

dyno tune is done via Matty Spry @ PITS with Gaven Wood along side.

could be pushed harder if u wanted but traction becomes an issue already.

The car is a ABSOLUTE ANIMAL !!

********************

new price $39,000

********************

mobile # 0413 055 811

post-5746-1142513405.jpg

Edited by MELV
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109950-r33-gtr-forsale-39000/
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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
N1 CAMS

N1 BLOCK

N1 HEAD

N1 OIL PUMP

Engine was replaced before shiped to AU stil low kms on new motor $10000

ARC FRONT MOUNT 100mm $1200

ARC CATCH CAN $130

ARC 16 layered oil cooler kit+remote oil filter $315

HKS 2835's TWIN BB TURBOS $3500

HKS PODs $200

OS Giken syncros ????

OS Giken Twin Plate clutch ? $2000

Tein coil over suspension ??

Dba slotted rotors $650

Green stuff pads $180

SSR lightweight rims $3800

Rims -18X10 Rubber – 285 – 30-18 yokoyama advan semi slicks

Defi gauges $1200

6 point roll cage $1700

Nizmo speedo ????

AVC-R BOOST CONTROLER $800

550cc injectors ????

Spitfire coils $800

Exhaust – CES Down pipes + twin Stainless steal 2 ¾” $2400

nismo fuel reg

HID headlight (like BMWs etc) $1300

ARC radiator $950

Clifford Alarm /remote start etc $1255

Tinted windows etc $220

HKS TURBO TIMER $40

Paint $2500

recaro seat $850

DYNO TUNES AND STREET TUNES $1800

POWER FC ECU - $900

[/sise=1]

$40000 Worth of mods HERE PPL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

your paying $4000 for the GTR

or is everyone on this site too soft to step up ? ?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

ok i have a proposal...

clean swap for tidy 33 GTST + Girlfriend, golden retriever, tabby cat, fishtank, drum kit, computer, home cinema + $1000 gold bullion

let me know if your interested.

if not good luck with the sale, the car looks awesome!

dan

pm sent.

Dale!!!... You're not are you?

I think Alex's 127 mph pass last night got you a little excited hey?

I have heard about this car and you must buy it!

Edited by 17SOK

Woof

I wish i had a better cash flow happining

hmmmm

that is a SEXY car

Dude its worth every penny

The right person will come along

Good luck mate

  • 1 month later...
Dale!!!... You're not are you?

I think Alex's 127 mph pass last night got you a little excited hey?

I have heard about this car and you must buy it!

ahaha bank knocked me back :(

i gotta wait a bit longer, for my GTR it seems :D

good luck wid the sale melv, ill be definently telling all my friends about it :laugh:

Edited by silverbulletR33


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    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
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